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Ender 5 Max Vented Lid Riser - WIP (full release candidate) — zdjęcie 1
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Ender 5 Max Vented Lid Riser - WIP (full release candidate)

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A vented lid riser for the Creality Ender 5 Max to keep the cables from scratching up the top acrylic.

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Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

This is a WORK IN PROGRESS. I'm still in the testing and tweaking phase, but the parts should be usable. If you encounter issues, please let me know.

This lid riser is for the Creality Ender 5 Max to stop the cables dragging on the acrylic lid and also provide some ventilation for PLA/PETG prints without having to remove the whole lid.

List of all required materials and instructions are in the text documents below. This is intended to be printed in ABS or similar materials for heat resistance. Do not use PLA or PETG for the final parts. Note that HT-PLA or HT-PLA-GF should suffice for this, but may experience creep over time. I don't really have a good way to test that other than to just... wait and see if it happens or not. HT PLA (and GF variant) should be stable up to 150*c if annealed, which the chamber of this machine is just simply never going to reach.

 

EDITS: (Last updated - 2/03/26)

  • Updated hole diameter of the Riser pieces to better fit the M5 bolts.

  • Added countersink holes to Riser Back pieces so parts will correctly sit flush.

  • Updated the position of the cable hole in the right side. Also rounded off the corners and removed the filler piece as it was not needed.

  • Increased the size of the holes for the M3x5x4 (Voron standard) heat set inserts as they were a bit too snug.

  • Added mirrored version for the slide grips so they will line up properly on the right side.

  • Slightly increased the size of the holes in the slide grips for a less snug fit on the M3 bolts.

  • Added small cutouts for the screws that stick up on the top frame of the printer.

  • Updated the Temp Corners to include the recess for the front left, and also added text to each part labeling it by location.

  • Rounded the vent slots for a stronger frame and nicer feel.

  • Added bevels to the seam of the frame parts so they can be "welded" together with a 3D pen for maximum strength and to keep them firmly in position.

  • Adjusted the length of the two front pieces where they meet the back ones.

  • Split the vents into 3 separate models and labeled them; it was too easy to mix them up and get stuck wondering why they didn't fit.

  • Updated tolerances: Added 1mm to the X and Y dimensions to loosen up the corner fit. Measurements have been checked and confirmed to be correct (as printed, model dimensions are 2-3mm smaller than outside of printer frame, but worked perfectly in my case).

  • Added a full assembly model showing all the parts in their intended positions for reference.


Notes:

  • New root access firmware is out, so remember to update yours if you're having trouble printing ABS due to the old crappy leveling cycle.

  • Once this project is deemed ready for final release, I will include a copy of my OrcaSlicer profile for this machine, with a 3mf file containing the ideal print settings for the parts in HT-PLA. Please be aware that my machine is using a 0.6mm nozzle, not the stock 0.4.

  • ^ Note: This is a release -candidate-. I'm not 100% certain all the kinks are worked out, but it's good enough that I am now including the custom OrcaSlicer profile for my machine. This includes a lightning fast profile for HT-PLA which can comfortably hit 45 cubic millimeters of flow, though this specific preset should be considered experimental.

Tagi