Reaper toolhead topless grille frame, Sherpa Mini mount for TAP and beefed X1C parts

I migrated from A4T toolhead due to crappy fans I had (sleeve bearing was shot after 50 hours of 70C chamber printing on one fan). I got those fans for free, so I did not cry much nor I was gonna order fancy ones from USA from Fabreeko and pay a ton of tax and delivery fees. I searched out my old trusty ball-bearing 5015s and strarted checking out the CAD files for Reaper. These should be 7500-8000rpm models and with the good ol' water test, they did push a couple centimeters deep “hole” into the water below the nozzle - I was damn happy with that. I can't imagine what VINDR 5015s would do lol.

All parts should be interchangeable as standalones with original parts in original design. My remixes have 3.1mm holes but the M3 bolts will go in quite tight to eliminate any play between the components and hold everything together true and straight.

Print with at least 5 walls, at least 30% infill. Get 4 square nuts that are 2mm thick and 4 M3x20 bolts to attach X1C hotend to the hotend cage. Hotend related parts come with integrated supports, use a smaller but strong flathead screwdriver for example to remove these.

Extruder/toolhead mount frame has top part thickness of 5mm, so its 7mm when its driven into the 2 square M3 nuts that are insterted to the slots from each side. They might go in fairly tightly, so be careful with that. I used M3x10 bolts to attach my hotend which had 3mm base. In fear of pushing the bolt through the nut and into the plastic, you can use M3 washers to lift he bolt depth a bit.

BOM: 
some decent filament, at least ABS with capabilities to print it without warping and have up to 6mm bridges dialed in;
4x M3x20 hexhead bolts, 6x square M3 nuts, possibly two M3 washers;
rigid and a bit sharper-ended flathead screwdriver to remove integrated supports;

Rest of the BOM and build goes as per official guides.