SNES Jr. USB-C Power Mod Adafruit Board Backplate

PLEASE NOTE: The Super Nintendo is a sensitive piece of vintage electronics. Powering the system with any form of inferior power supply can and will cause issues and shorten the life of the console. USB-PD is not inherently dangerous, but cheap or untested USB Power Supplies are. Many experts recommend avoiding USB-C mods because even when done safely, it can be difficult to source or identify safe and thoroughly vetted power supplies. While the "Reflex Volt" line of PSUs are thought of highly, I cannot personally vouch for them electrically.

Never perform any modification that requires removing parts of the systems original power circuitry, or running the system at a voltage other than the original (in this case, 9v). This goes for all vintage consoles, not just the SNES.

A remix of a USB-C backplate for SNES “Jr.” consoles designed by agi. It's a very well made model but I had some issues trying to use it personally so I made a few tweaks that I thought other people might find useful.

It's intended to allow you to modify your console to run off of USB-C. By installing a USB-C trigger board configured to output 9 volts at 1 amp, you can power the system with any USB-PD compatible power supply without changing any of the original operations of the console. This is superior to other USB-C mods that run off of 5 volts as it allows for more stable power delivery and is more in-line with the systems intended operations.

In my experience, the opening for the Multi AV out on the original model was quite a bit too small, making it impossible to seat around the port; I increased several dimensions to bring it more in-line with the official Nintendo backplate.

Additionally, the leftmost screw post appeared to be a bit too long, I moved it inwards 0.55mm so the plate can sit flush with the board and install in the case more seamlessly.

I added an option to mount the board upside down instead of the original orientation. This serves several purposes: it allows the board to be mounted much higher on the backplate without changing the location of the actual USB-C port - this in turn not only makes it easier to install without fowling on the row of capacitors directly behind the mount, but also allows you to use longer screws to secure the board that would otherwise stick through the “bottom” of the mount.

Lastly, while the port labels are an excellent touch, they are too detailed for my printer, so I made variations of both the upside-down and right-side up models without it for a smooth surface.

Printed in PLA on an Elegoo Neptune 2; In my experievce printing upside-down will minimize supports and result in the cleanest visible surfaces. 
All testing was done with this board: https://www.adafruit.com/product/5807

I secured the board with these screws, though they poke slightly out the bottom so shouldn't be used with the right-side-up model as the mount sits flush with the motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B16PXW25?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title