Framework Expansion Card Shell – USB-A

3D printable exterior shell for customizing a USB-A Expansion Card for Framework devices.

The model itself is a little broken, but it should still slice and print right. I found success printing this model with matte PLA, on its back (solid face down), at the low end of the filament’s temperature range, and with tree supports for the overhanging areas. Other configurations may work, but are untested.

To do a shell swap, you will need an original USB-A card, a Torx T5 screwdriver (included in the Framework Screwdriver), and optionally a light prying tool such as a plastic spudger (also included in the FWSD, or available separately from iFixit). And of course, a print of this model!

1. Unscrew the two silver T5 screws on either side of the USB-C connector. These screws aren’t magnetic, so be careful not to lose them!
2. Hold the card with both hands, with the label facing toward you and the USB-C connector pointing upward. Put your thumbs on the label face, in the middle of each side edge. There are locking fingers there, shown in a photo by ImaxinarDM on the Framework forum.
3. Press down with your thumbs and push upward toward the USB-C connector to slide the label face off. It may take some force, and you may want to use a prying tool for extra wedging power on the edge closest to the USB-A port.
4. Once the two pieces are far enough apart that they won’t slide farther, lift the label face away from the rest of the unit.
5. Unscrew the two black T5 screws holding the PCB in place. These may be magnetic, but I’m not certain, so I still recommend trying not to lose them!
6. Lift the PCB out of the old shell and set it into the new shell, aligning the smaller notches on the PCB with the alignment posts on the shell close to the USB-A cutout.
7. Re-screw the black T5 screws into the screw holes beside the alignment posts.
8. Slide the label face onto the new assembly like it was before. The locking fingers are useless here but won’t get in the way.
9. Re-screw the silver T5 screws on either side of the USB-C connector.

Congratulations, your USB-A card is now customized! It may not be held together as securely as on the original shell due to screwing into plastic rather than threaded inserts, but it should still be solid enough for normal use.