1/2 Scale Sentry F-2

This model isn't too accurate to the real thing, but it is pretty close.
Runs on 7.5-9 volts DC.
This model is not meant to be outdoors for extended periods of time!
Recommended material for all parts in this model: PLA/PLA+

------------------------------------------------

- - Parts List - -

Required parts

280 Motor - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWJ29YN2
This siren will also fit a 370 motor, but I haven't tested one on it.

Hardware - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F98FDG9Z
Specifically for the M2.5x6 (280 motor mounting) and M3x5 screws (everywhere else) here.

Shaft Coupler - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GN261FC
This makes the rotor mount more secure, and also adds weight.

You will also need wires to connect the motor to a power source.
I recommend using 24 gauge wire.
If you're doing straight from motor to battery, you can just run the wire through the motor's tabs.
If you're doing motor to barrel jack, you may need to solder the wires to the barrel jack, but not the motor.

Optional parts

5.5mm Barrel Jack - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N8VV78D
For using a 5.5mm jack power supply with your siren.

Power Supply - 7.5 volts OR 9 volts
For using a 5.5mm jack with your siren.\

------------------------------------------------

- - Print & Assembly - -

Before you print the actual model…

I recommend that you print the tolerance tool first, and test the fit with the shaft coupler. Whichever hole has a nice fit, not requiring a lot of force to push in, but still tight enough to not just fall out, you should use the corresponding rotor file. For example, if the best fit is on hole E, then you'll print the E rotor.

Printing

I usually do 100% infill on my rotors. For everything else, I did 15% infill.
Supports are needed for the stator to print properly. Use snug supports on that.
I recommend using brims on the horns, rear cover, and mounting frame.

Assembly

First, you will want to align the stator with the middle section, making sure the screw holes are aligned. Once aligned, fasten the parts together with four M3 screws.

Install the motor with the M2.5x6 screws (M3 if you're using a 370). You may need to adjust the screw tightness later on if the rotor scrapes.

Slide the shaft coupler into the rotor. Make sure the holes on the shaft coupler and the rotor align, and then insert one of the coupler's screws in, but not fully, acting a sort of key holding the rotor in place. Then confirm that the rotor doesn't slide off of the shaft coupler if force is applied.

Install the rotor onto the exposed shaft of the motor, and again use one of the shaft coupler's screws to tighten the rotor onto the shaft. Make sure the ports on the rotor align with the ports on the stator.

Slide the outer horn onto the stator first, and then the inner horn. Slide the outer horn forwards so you can access the screw holes for the inner horn, and screw the horn in with the M3 screws. Then, slide the outer horn backwards onto the stator, and screw that in with the M3 screws.

Screw the mounting frame onto the middle section with the M3 screws. I recommend using the M3x10 screws for this part.

If you're not using a barrel jack, run the wires through the hole on the middle section, then attach the wires to the motor.

If you are using a barrel jack, install the barrel jack into the hole on the middle section. You can either glue it in place, or use the hex nut to secure it in place. Then, cut and run wires from each of the contacts of the barrel jack to the motor. Make sure you don't place two wires onto one contact!

Finally, install the rear cover with the M3 screws, and you're done assembling your mini F-2!

(I will take any suggestions to improve these instructions if I have to, I know these aren't perfect.)

------------------------------------------------

Mini Microburst + Macroburst coming soon..? 👀