Core One MMU3 Y-feed on nextruder
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Combine a straight feed in from the top for the MMU and an angled entry that will also hold up the cable loom.
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Why
My cable loom was sagging to the point where it got stuck between the extruder and the motor at the left. I tried several other solutions, but they either did not hold up cable loom properly or extended the MMU3 feed length significantly. So I decided to create a solution that combined the straight feed in from the top for the MMU and will also use the PTFE tube to hold up the cable loom.
Result
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Construction
Printing instructions
Print in PETG, do not use PLA. Choose the lowest layer height you can.
0.4mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer height, 100% infill with 4 walls. The filament in the photo's are Prusament PETG Clear. Print with the flat part at the bottom. No supports needed.
Required materials
E3D V6 collet, printed in PETG also 0.1mm layer height.
Fitting M5-4 - you can reuse the one currently in the top of your nextruder or use a different model.
Checking the print
Use some filament to ensure it can freely be inserted and removed from both entries. It should not catch on anything.
Assembly
Push the E3D V6 collet into the top of the print. Screw the fitting into the angled opening. Screw on tightly and make sure it forms a straight line.
Gently screw the print into the top of the nextruder. Do not over tighten or the thread will snap of. It its perfectly fine if the print can freely turn - push in the PTFE tube in the fitting. This will prevent it from rotating fully and getting undone.
Next push in the PTFE tube for the MMU3 from the top. Ensure it is fully seated - you should be able to push it quite a bit (around 2cm or 3/4 of an inch).
Tips
When cutting PTFE tube, insert a piece of filament. This prevents the tube from deforming too much. Same for when inserting it into the top; put filament in it and use small pliers to gently push it in.
If you have trouble getting the fsensor to engage or disengage; put some lubricant on the screws with the springs (on the part that go through the Heatsink assembly). This makes the idler much much smoother to move and mine now always engages and disengages without problems. Especially if your MMU3 is unloading and it stops pulling; for me this solved the unloading ussue completely.
@hachleitner_1769169 made some very nice clips for the cable loom and the PTFE tube that you can see in my pictures, thanks!