Budget-friendly & compact mATX case with ATX PSU

Unique looking Micro-ATX case designed specifically to be both budget-friendly and also be printable on small printers down to 180 x 180 x 180 mm in print volume. A perfect little project for your Original Prusa MINI+  or similar printer.

Good to know:

The case shown in the pictures is printed exclusively in Prusament colors. The main body is printed in Prusament PETG Galaxy Black 1kg while the side panel is printed using Prusa's two brand new PLA colors created in collaboration with Noctua. Check out the Prusament PLA Noctua Brown 1kg and Prusament PLA Noctua Beige 1kg. The total filament use is shown in the table further down.

Here you can read Prusa's full article on the new Noctua collaboration.

Overall case size incl. feet: L:300mm H:295mm W:190mm (excl. headphone holder)

Compatible components:

 NOTE: Not all parts listed can fit at the same time, please plan your layout based on build video and presented layout pictures. Feel free to ask for help if needed, see Discord link further down. 

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• Micro-ATX or ITX motherboard

• ATX or SFX power supply

• Graphic cards up to 275mm - (250mm if using lower front HDD/fan mount)

• 120mm AIO Liquid cooler - (possible to do push+pull config)

• Using ATX PSU: CPU Cooler clearance 65mm (For ideal airflow < 55mm)

• Using SFX PSU: CPU Cooler clearance 85mm (For ideal airflow < 75mm)

• 3x 2.5" SSDs - (2x instead of front 120mm fans or 3.5" HDDs)

• 2x 3.5" HDDs - (instead of 2x 2.5" SSDs or 120mm front fans, requires the use of 90-degree SATA power and data cables, see comment two sections down regarding HDD use)

• Up to 4x 120mm computer fans - (2x front fans if not using 3.5" or 2.5" HDD/SSD in the front)

Required parts to complete build:

• 50x (approx.) M3 threaded inserts (M3 x 4.6 x 5.7 mm)

• 50x (approx.) M3 x 10 mm screws

• 16x 8 x 3 mm neodymium magnets

• 12 mm momentary push button (power button)

Optional parts:

• Front-panel mounted dual USB cable (see comment in next section)

• Super glue (to keep the magnets in place)

Important considerations before building in this case:

• IF YOU PLAN TO USE 3.5" HDDS: If your motherboard has built in 90-degree SATA connectors pointing to the side, you may not be able to use a 3.5" HDD in the lower front slot depending on where the SATA ports are located. You can still use a 120mm fan or 2.5" drive in the slot, then just put the 3.5" hard drive in the upper slot. 
  

• IF YOU PLAN TO USE FRONT PANEL USB PORTS COMBINED WITH 120MM AIO: Depending on where your 20-pin front-panel USB connector is located on your motherboard it may interfere with using a 120mm AIO. (A low-profile USB header extension might solve this challenge)
  

Printed parts list and recommended print settings:

Each STL file has a F-number in the file name. This is added as the design is intended for printing parts in more than one single color. Therefore each STL name is coded to make color management easier. Keep in mind that some of the joints are available in more than one tolerance setting.

F1 = Main body, if using premium filament these are the main visible parts - (Galaxy Black PETG in pictures)
F2 = Other not-so-visible parts hidden inside the case, can be same as F1 - (Galaxy black PETG in pictures)
F3 = Side panel front half - (Noctua Brown PLA in pictures.)
F4 = Side panel rear half - (Noctua Beige PLA in pictures.)
PSU SUPPORT  = Load bearing "guy" under the power supply. (PETG or better recommended)

Actual filament use per color based on build presented:

Need assistance? Join MAKERUNIT's Discord server:

Do you have questions about this project or want to discuss this, or other projects with other makers? The MAKERUNIT Discord server is now open for everyone. Join by clicking here! 

Threaded insert guide:

Every hole requiring a M3 threaded inserts is marked with a small triangle pointing directly at the hole.

The big triangle and number on some of the parts indicate how many threaded inserts that specific part requires in total. This extra detail is only added on the large parts where there is room for it.

If a hole has no triangle pointing to it - no threaded insert is required. Simple as that!

KEEP IN MIND: The two holes for the headphone holder on the backside of the motherboard mount does not have triangles as it's an optional addon visible from the outside if not in use. If using headphone holder, add inserts to those two holes as well.

Assembly instructions:

All threaded inserts should be installed prior to assembly start. Written instructions may deviate slightly from what's shown in the YouTube video. (Explaining pictures are coming soon...)

1. Place the four main body parts and the main body cross joint on a flat surface in front of you. Each part has a built in arrow, these should all point in the same direction.
   

2. Slide each of the four corners onto the cross joint at a 45-degree angle. Each of the four corner parts have small notches in the sides that need to align to keep the body parts in place.
   

3. Between the two top corner parts, slide in place the joining piece. Make sure it's pushed down all the way so it's about 6 millimeters deeper than the outer edge of the body and flush with the indentation already there. The top joining piece is available in 0.1 and 0.2mm tolerances.
   

4. Grab the front joint and push it in place the same way. Make sure the side with the open hole in goes first into the tracks.
   

5. Secure the front joint into place to the main body using a M3 screw.
   

6. Find the 6 printed feet, each one with a threaded insert can be secured in place from the inside of the main body. The two middle feet have two holes each and are intended to hold the front and rear bottom halves together with one screw on each side on each foot.
   

7. The PCIe mounting bracket can now be mounted to the lower main body using four M3 screws.
   

8. Depending on whether you use a SFX or ATX power supply, grab the correct mounting bracket and secure it to the top of the case using two M3 screws and down into the PCIe bracket using two more screws.
   
   The main body is now fully assembled and we can move on to the side panel.
   

9. Same as with the main body, align all four panel pieces on a flat surface with the side panel joint in the middle. Make sure the arrows on every part are pointing the same direction.
   

10. Slide the bottom two and upper left panel at a 45-degree angle onto the joint.
    

11. The upper right panel with the ventilation holes can now also be slid onto the joint. Don't worry that it feels loose at this point.
    

12. Grab the four tiny side panel joints and screw them onto the threaded inserts added to the side panels. The top, bottom and front joint screw in place from the inside of the panel, while the rear joint screw in place from the backside. 
    
    Adding magnets to the main body and side panel.
    

13. Once the side panel is assembled it's time to install some magnets. An easy way to get the polarity correct is to grab a stack of magnets then add a piece of tape to one side of the stack. Hold the tape-side in your hand and push all the magnets into the main body from that side.
    

14. Move the piece of tape to the opposite side of the magnet stack and again hold the tape-side in your hand and push all the magnets into the side panel from that side.
    
    Use super-glue to keep the magnets in place if necessary.
    
    
    The case is now fully assembled and ready to start installing components.
    

UPDATE LOG:

04JAN26: Model files published on Printables.

05FEB26: Added file "F1_MAIN_BODY_lower_front_corner_v1.7" due to minor chamfer misalignment in one of the threaded insert holes for the bottom USB mount. New .step file v1.7 also added including the correction.