Qidi Plus 4 Beacon Mount

Overview

 ⚠ Important Please Read ⚠

Print and use this Qidi Plus 4 Beacon Mount at your own risk. I assume no liability for any damage, injury, or malfunction arising from its use, misuse, or from the characteristics of the material you choose to print it with.

 My goal with this project is simple and straightforward: To improve the overall looks of the beacon mount, leave the stock fan configuration and to make the hot end more quickly accessible. With that being stated, none of this would be possible without Stew675 and his amazing Beacon mount.

      All links are non-affiliate 

     Bill of materials:

• Beacon H, Normal | Beacon3D | West3D

• 2 5x3mm Magnets | Amazon

• Super Glue 

Printing

     Suggested Filaments:

• Avoid low temperature filaments.

• Choose Glass or Carbon Fiber filaments for greater rigidity

• PC, PA, PPA (aka PAHT), or PET with CF or GF filling are usually all good choices

• Use PC, or PPA if you print with high temperature filaments on a regular basis, as the bed temperatures may cause some deformation over time

  Print the Beacon Mount face down as already orientated. Use auto organic trees on the build plate only. Supports come off easy, but be careful with the supports on the crossmember. Take your time and snip the base off that tree before trying to remove. Use 999 walls.

• Nozzle: .4

• Filament: PA | PC | PPA (See Above)

• Walls: 999 (⚠Important⚠)

• Layer Height: .2

• Supports: Yes, Auto organic tree supports on the build plate only

• Bed Adhesion: Yes; Brim

Installation

     Quick Notes:

• To SSH into your printer first open a command prompt or terminal. Once open, type: ssh [email protected] replacing the Xs with your printer's IP address.  You will then be prompted for a password. It is "makerbase". The cursor won't move as you type it, just hit enter afterwards.

• Power Loss Recovery does not work when using the Beacon probe. A solution is being worked on for this but for now, do not expect to be able to resume prints after power loss.

• To comment something out, place a "#" in front of the line.

• Read the guide in full, you may miss something.

     Physical Beacon Installation:

  First thing to do is to install the two magnets. We will need a dab of super glue for this. You will need to pay attention to polarity on the side with the crossmember as there is an embedded magnet in the toolhead we are attaching to. The other side doesn't matter as it magnetizes to a screw. A bit of glue and a firm press.

  We need to remove the front cover of your toolhead in your printer by lifting up, then off. On the right hand side you have a probe that we will no longer need. Remove the 2 screws, unplug the probe and remove it. We will need those two screws to mount the Toolhead cover. Take them and start threading them in to the crossmember in the same hole each came out of(long on top) just enough to hold them in until we can tighten them down. See image below on right.

  Your beacon came with a few screws. We will be using the shorter ones. We want to attach the Beacon to the mount with the connector facing up and on the outside of the cover. top left pic. Careful to not overtighten and strip them. 

  Next we want to get the screws started into the crossmember through the front honeycomb. Image above on right. This will make it much easier to tighten down once the cover is on. Make sure you used the right screw in the right spot. Longer on top. Screws should thread in without issue.

  Time to plug the Beacon in to the board. You are going to run the cord through the inside of the cover and out to the beacon probe. It's a tight fit and you may struggle for a minute but you will get it plugged in. Mount the toolhead and everything should hold in place. Tighten the screws going through the honeycomb all the way until you feel resistance, careful not to strip them.

  The USB cord can be ran along side the drag chain, going through the wire access hole. Your goal is to plug it into one of the bottom two USB ports on the left hand side of the motherboard. I recommend unplugging the third one down and using it as it will just get rid of the USB port on the top back of the printer. If you run offline or ethernet you can pull out the WiFi dongle and use the forth spot. 

     File Changes

  We will be jumping to stew's guide for the remainder of this. Starting with "First backup your configuration and klipper objects" and moving forward. This is a simple straightforward process that mostly involves copying and pasting snippets of code. Everything can be reversed so do not fear this modification. This design was made with Stew's beacon mod specifications in mind, and operates the same in principal to his mount.

     Using Screw_Adjust_Start

  Tramming the bed has changed with your new Beacon probe. Gone are the old ways of using a piece of paper. The Beacon Probe knows precisely how far away the nozzle is from the bed.  This makes the task of tramming the bed using the four nuts under the print bed a lot easier.

  To use this new tramming method, first home all axis, afterwards pre-heat your print bed to a temperature you often print at and let it heat soak for five minutes. Then call SCREW_ADJUST_START from the device tab console window. Finally call  SFL, SFR, SBL, or SBR, depending on which corner you want to start with. You will need to do all four independently. You will be greeted with a z-offset number that will look like z=x.xxxx. The goal is to get as close to Z=2.00 as possible, although this will not be perfectly obtainable. After adjusting the bed screw, call the corner again to get the new z-offset. Repeat for the three remaining corners.

Troubleshooting

Stew's guide is the best possible thing. Scroll all the way to the bottom for his troubleshooting section. You can also reach out to members in the Official Qidi Discord. I am obviously around so if you do have a question just message me.

Other models you may like:

Or take a look at any of my other Plus 4 Mods

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EDIT: 02/14/2026 | Error using Qidi box found. Guide updated