Radxa Zero 3E case w/ 40mm fan mount

Comes with the freecad project.

Hardware:

• 4x M3x12 Self-tapping

• 1x M3x18 ish Self-tapping

• 4xM4x10-16

  • (i used a tap and bolts, self-tapping will likely do. there is enough clearance for longer screws too)

  • pre-tap before putting it in the case as it takes decent force

• 40mm fan (4010 in my case)

  • 2pin will do. Got mine off aliexpress for cheap and hooked it up to the 3v3 pin on the board; keeps it cold enough for my liking (at the time of writing sitting at 43degC while in performance governor with slight load) (the 3v3 regulator hasn't burned out yet either so seems to be fine too)

• Optionally a 40mm fan grill, you could probably print one but i got the off aliexpress for cheap.

• Fits a micro sd - emmc board, mine is about 25mm in lenght iirc. 

It might also fit the POE hat, but haven't tested it. As far as i can tell you can use two screws to hold the board down and two for the poe hat, the poe hat screws are non-optional as they are used for power. I'm not sure how many screws it actually needs. My idea would be printing custom stand-offs (10mm height seems appropriate?) and using M3x20-22 UNCOATED => conductive screws to go all the way through the poe hat into the case. Please check the actual size of the standoffs and adjust screws as (8 or 12mm + standoff_mm + 2mm).

Assembly:

The M3x12 screws are used to screw the board down, it seems it is made for M2.5 but with a little bit of force they do go in, i wouldn't worry about damaging the board like this.

The port-insert piece is made to glue in, it closes the gaps around the ports & holds the case a together a bit. You could likely merge it into the bottom part of the case if wanted, but this way it can be printed flat and nice&clean. Superglue could do, B-7000 silicone-esque display glue worked very well for me.

The four fan bolts hold the two halves together, along with the single m3x18 screw on the bottom.

Notes:

• Rotate to print as flat as possible.

• Printed as two walls + alternate, 10% lateral honeycomb@multiline-2 infill and feels rather sturdy, both in PLA and PETG. Results in almost 60g of filament total.

• I did have a height modifier for 0-2.25mm to set the infil to grid@multiline-1 for the top and bottom parts as lateral honeycomb didn't do very well for supporting the surface, but you can likely get away without doing that or setting bottom layers to a higher number to fill it in completely.

• Would advise Slowing down small perimeters as the fan outlet pillars are quite small. I set 60mm/s at 2mm threshold.

• Variable layer height didn't cause any issues, precise z height enabled.

• It is modeled with pre-tapped holes however i don't think you'll have much luck without self-tapping screws, i modeled the threads so the screws have something to hold onto and i dont have to bother with getting the clearance perfect. If you know your printer you can edit the holes to set the right clearance.

(picture with the white case is an older version, blue is up-to-date)