Shpoore Toolhead

Atlas Toolhead is now Sphoore

For my own 3D printer design, Atlas, I originally developed the Atlas Toolhead, a modular system including ABL, wide hotend compatibility and dual 5015 part cooling fans. The first iteration I published was a bit clumsy, the new version is about 30% smaller, easier to assemble and has hotend LEDs. The Toolhead now goes by the name Shpoore, for (S)phereapproximating (H)igh (P)erformance (O)perator (O)rientated (E)xtruderassembly.

Thingiverse post: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6774925

Main features of Shpoore

• Extrusion via Creality E-fit extruder and optional 40-43 stepper as a replacement for pancake stepper

• Dual 5015 part cooling fans

• Strong nozzle LEDs

• ABL compatibility (via BL-/CR-Touch, Eddy probe or Klack Ender)

• Modular design for easy serviceability and maintenance

• Compatible with drop in hotend replacements (including: MK8, Ender REVO, Dragonfly, Voron hotend, Creality Spider (V1-V3))

• Compatible with BTT Smart Filament Sensor V2

• Shpoore works with an MGN 12 linear rail and the original Toolhead plate (holes need to be drilled with included drill jig)

  Shpoore is in parts a remix, the sources can be found in the remix section, and under CAD sources.

For assembly you will need the following hardware:

Bill of materials

5x M3x6mm bolt or buttonhead
3x M3x8mm bolt or buttonhead
2x M3x10mm bolt or buttonhead
4x M3x16mm bolt or buttonhead
2x M3x20mm bolt or buttonhead
4x M3x22mm bolt or buttonhead
1x M3x8 buttonhead bolt
1x M3x20mm buttonhead smooth middle (idler bolt from Efit extruder)
2x M5x8mm bolt or buttonhead
10x M3 nut
2x M5 nut
1x M3 washer
1x Creality E-Fit extruder (pancake and 34-40 motors work here)
1x PTFE-tube for hotend (as guide into the heat sink or to the meltzone, length is dependant on your specific hotend)
2x 5015 blower fan 24V (or 12V with converter)
1x 4010 axial fan 24V (or 12V with converter)
(Optional) 2x hotend LEDS (example: https://www.amazon.de/Tiardey-Hotend-D%C3%BCsenbeleuchtung-3D-Druckerzubeh%C3%B6r-24-Volt-LED-Beleuchtungsset-ENDER-3/dp/B0CVVS6XVG)
(Optional) 1x BL Touch / CR Touch or other probe + cable
(Optional) 2x JST-SM crimp connectors (male and female) + crimping tool

Assembly

(For all these turn the printer off. For clarification of the building steps, please consult the included 3D model)

If you modify an existing printer, the first step is to remove the toolhead completely and if not already done, install an MGN12H linear rail with carriage on your x axis.

Step 1

Take the original toolmount and drill four holes for the linear rail carriage with the included drill jig. This plate can be printed if you don't want to drill the holes, but this is not recommended, as the hotend will sit directly on this part, therefore even with ABS the mount might warp over time.

Step 2

Push in the hotend LEDS and guide the wires through the hole under the bar in the middle of the part. Now bolt the part to the hotend plate with an M5x8mm bolt or buttonhead and an M5 nut.

Step 3

Bolt the extruder mount to the top left of the hotend plate with an M5x8mm bolt or buttonhead. Use both middle wire channels and an M3x16 bolt or buttonhead to secure the cables and stabilze the extruder mount.

Step 4

Install both 5015 fans to the fan duct with four M3x22mm bolts or buttonheads and four M3 nuts, while hiding the cables inside the two cable covers. Install the third cable cover with an M3x8mm bolt for bottonhead and an M3 nut.

Step 5

Connect the fanduct and the hotend plate with an M3x8mm buttonhead and an M3 nut through the hole on the right, use the hotend standoffs as guides. Now bolt this assembly to your linear rail carriage with one M3x8mm and two M3x6mm bolts or buttonheads. Pay attention the the angle of the assembly on the carriage ist sould be completely parallel to the axis.

Step 6

PTFE-line your hotend, so that the PTFE-tube end at the very top of the round extruder connector (depending on your model you will have to unscrew the top piece and screw in the connector included with the Efit extruder). Add heater cartriage(s) and thermistor to the hotend, if not already done, and slot it into the bottom of the extruder (do not screw in the locking knop).

Step 7

Bolt the extruder and hotend combo to the toolhead with two M3x20mm bolts or buttonheads through the hotend and one M3x8mm buttonhead through the back hole of the extruder mount on the left (add the sfs spacer here if you want to use one, for this remove the idler bolt put the spacer over the extruder and screw th bolt back in). At this stage you can add a cable chain and begin with wire management.

Step 8

Mount your bed probe on the left with two M3x10mm bolts or buttonheads and two M3 nuts, then add the corresponding wiring.

Step 9

Prepare the front cover by bolting the 4010 axial fan and the airduct to the cover with two M3x16mm bolts or buttonheads. Add one M3 nut on each side at the bottom of the cover, these need to be glued in.

Step 10

Attach the front cover with two M3x10mm bolts or buttonheads. Now secure the cover in place with an M3x16mm bolt or buttonhead through the side cable cover and the front hole of the extruder mount at the top of the cover.

Step 11

Push in the printed filament guide into the sfs spacer. Mount the sfs to the corresponding plate with three M3x6mm bolts or buttonheads, then slide this assembly onto the toolhead where it should hold via a pressfit connection. Ensure that the filament path between extruder and sfs is clear and that the inner bore of the adapter is large enough for filament to glide through without resistance. Add the cable for the sfs and finialyse your wiring