Floatwheel ADV/Pro/ADV2 BTG minifender + fender + fender delete

Minifender

Minifenders for the Floatwheel ADV/Pro/ADV2 with BTG tire. 

There are 4 versions of minifender:

1. Default board height + extra mounting screws

2. Default board height, no extra mounting screws

3. Lowered 12mm board height (down 1 notch) + extra mounting screws

4. Lowered 12mm board height (down 1 notch), no extra mounting screws

"Extra screws" versions basically have 2 extra mounting points (2.2mm-9.5mm screws, DIN7981) which connect the minifender to the mudguard (should be my design as well). These screws help to reduce the gap between mudguard and minifender/fender delete and prevent dirt and water from getting in between the mudguard and the minifender. However, if you don't care, or you plan to permanently glue together mudguards and minifenders then you can use "no screw" version.

(extra screws)

(screw width)

Can fit Onewheel Threaded Rally XL tire (7in/12in). TFL BTG Thundercat will fit no problem (it is narrower and slightly smaller than Threaded XL).
On 10psi the gap to the tire is approximately 8mm (Rally XL).

Fender

Fender for the Floatwheel ADV/Pro/ADV2 with BTG tire.
Same model for both the default height and lowered by 12mm height boards (difference in height is "covered" by different minifenders).

Required bed size is 250x250mm. I've printed my parts on Bambulab A1, which has 256x256mm bed, and there was around 8mm gap to the edge of the bed.

There are 2 versions of the fender:

1. Modular (consists of 3 parts: 1 central part + 2 side parts). Requires 20 M2.2 9.5mm (DIN7981) screws to assemble.

2. Single part (no screws required).

(modular version of the fender; note screws)

If you own bed-slinger 3d printer, or if you want to reduce the filament use and plastic waste then I'd recommend the modular version of the fender (and it looks cooler!). I tried printing the whole fender in one go on a beg-slinger, but the results were not good, too much artifacts, too high risk of failure. The model (~250g) is simply too heavy for beg-slingers. Maybe, if you reduce the print speed drastically then it could work... But if you own large enough Core-XY printer then you can print the whole fender in one go. But still, you will need a lot of supports...

This fender has a snap-fit just like the original Floatwheel ADV fender (~10mm preload). But it is NOT compatible with original  ADV minifenders. It is only compatible with my design minifenders.

Updates

v3.2 - make screw holes a tiny bit more symmetrical, and reduce the amount of necessary screws (20->18); make the fender side part a bit beefier; added *.3mf files with the slicer settings preset; minifender hasn't changed in this version; got rid of builtin brim in fender assembly parts;

Print Advice

• v3.2+ specific

  • you can use *.3mf files, which have slicer settings builtin (preset I was printing my fender assembly with)

  • since I got rid of builtin brim (it was confusing for users) use slicer option "Brim". Without it the model almost certainly will come off.
    

    

• v3.1 specific

  • Use *.step files for fender parts (they have builtin brims, which will help with bed adhesion and model stability during the print - just split the model in your slicer)

  • The gap between the model and the brim is !MINUS! 0.1mm (brim and model overlap by 0.1mm). Enable 0.1mm elephant-foot-compensation for the model itself - this way the brim will be right next to the model.

• PETG, PETG-HF (for fenders) or PETG-CF (I've use this one for minifenders; a bit heavier but also stronger)

• If you print single-part fender then you may want to add stiffening rib modifiers (4-6 layers) along fender to make it less bendable. Modular fender will have these stiffeners out-of-the-box "by design".

• For screw holes use 100% infill modifiers

  

See also

Floatwheel ADV/Pro mudguards (BTG)

Floatwheel ADV power button plug

Floatwheel ADV charging port plug