stealthmount Out Front Undermount Wedge Adapter
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For the folks that want their light as tucked in as possible under the Out Front mount.
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The stealthmount Out Front Mount ships with a GoPro flange so that you can mount an action camera or light underneath your mount. For the folks that really want to dial in their light mounting and make it as low profile as possible, here's a parametric wedge adapter you can 3D print to do away with the GoPro flange entirely if your light utilizes a quarter-turn (Garmin) adapter.
Important note: this is an experimental design. Print and use at your own risk; Gradient Projects is not liable for this part failing or your light coming off, etc.
Ok, with that out of the way, some more notes:
Besides being an experimental design, this is overall my first foray into using replicad to offer folks a lightweight no-install configurator.
I'm new to replicad, so please let me know if anything is broken.
I will leave older versions of the source uploaded even if I make a revision.
TL;DR since this writeup became quite verbose:
This is a user-configurable "wedge" that lets you attach a (sourced) quarter-turn puck to the bottom of your Out Front mount.
You can set the angle of this wedge to your liking.
You can modify the sizing to match your sourced puck.
You can choose to use either heat-set inserts and machine screws or thread forming screws and no heat set inserts.
Print the model with either big flat face flat on your bed (depending on your wedge angle and what overhang that drives).
A finer layer height will make the other angled face smoother, but you'll likely want to sand the angled face flat for better mounting.
I recommend printing this with a high infill, high perimeter count, and in an outdoor-rated material like ASA.
You can configure this model! Here is a link to the replicad file.
You can choose to configure the model for heat set inserts or thread forming screws.
Regardless of what configuration you select, you will need to BYO "puck" for attaching your light underneath. More on that in a later section.
You'll also need to take some measurements from your puck to make sure it fits well.
You can set the "wedge angle" to determine the tilt angle of your light with respect to your Out Front mount.
I've also attached a zipped HTML file, download and zip for your configurable enjoyment.
Files will output as stealthmount-undermount-wedge_XX_od##_cc##_a#
XX is screw type: HS for heat set inserts, TF for thread forming screws
od## is puck OD in mm (decimals are handled like 33.3 mm → 33p3, for example)
cc## is puck hole center to center in mm (decimals handled same as above)
a# is wedge angle (decimals handled same as above)
Besides the print, here's what you'll need:
Here's a summary table of what you'll need. More details are after the table!
Heat Set | Thread Forming | |
|---|---|---|
Inserts | N/A | |
OF <> Wedge Screws | 2x GoPro Flange mounting screws (included with your original mount) (alternatively 2x McMaster 92125A128 or equivalent) | |
Wedge <> Puck Screws | See notes on pucks below, but likely 2x McMaster 92125A128 (or equivalent) |
If you choose to use heat-set inserts:
The heat-set configuration is designed around McMaster 94459A130 inserts.
M3 x 0.5 mm
4.3 mm installed length
Max installation hole ID of 4 mm
You will need 4x heat set inserts per wedge.
If you're not using the GoPro flange but are instead using this wedge, you can use the 2x M3 screws that came with your GoPro flange to instead attach this wedge to the underside of your mount.
You will need 2x additional M3 screws to attach your "puck" to the wedge. Some pucks come with these screws, some do not.
You need to ensure that the puck installation screws do not protrude farther than 5mm out of the bottom of the puck.
If your puck "floor" thickness is around 2 mm as seems to be standard, you'll need 2x more M3 flat head screws with a thread length ≤ 6.5 mm (for a flat head M3, that means a total screw length of 8 mm)
If you choose to use thread-forming screws:
The thread-forming screw configuration is designed around McMaster 95893A189 thread-forming screws.
M3 size
Flat head
Total length 8 mm
Head height 1.8 mm
Thread length 6.2 mm
Designed for a pilot hole of 2.44 mm
You will need 4x of these screws per wedge - assuming that your puck "floor" thickness is around 2 mm as seems to be standard.
If your puck floor is much thicker or much thinner, you'll need to pick a screw that ensures no greater than 6.5 mm thread engagement with the wedge.
BYO Puck
You're probably printing this on a FDM printer. The layer-adhesion failure risk of FDM means that it's not well suited to printing the quarter turn flexure itself.
Fortunately, you can buy these pucks for pretty cheap on the internet - and they'll be injection molded!
Here's a couple links. Neither is an affiliate link, and I've not yet personally validated either option. If you do end up using one of these, please let me know so that I can update this description accordingly!
Here's a link to an option on AliExpress (note: pick the Garmin Unthreaded option!)

You'll need to update the model variables based on the details of your puck.
Puck OD (mm) → the outer diameter of the puck itself
Puck Hole C2C (mm) → the center-to-center spacing of the mounting holes on the puck.

Happy riding! Please post your makes!