The Mandalorian Wearable Armor - Star Wars

THIS IS THE WAY

Based on the sculpt models of our popular Mandalorian 3D printable action figure, here's a fully wearable costume of armor and gear for you to wear!

• Original sculpts, taken from our free action figure , blown up in size and modified to be wearable
   

• Scale it to fit your size
  

• Some parts are pre-supported for easier printing
  

• Focus on ease, for casual or new hobbysts & cosplayers
  

• No helmet from us at this moment, our original model is not wearable, so we fully recommend this free helmet by Rob Pauza: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-mandalorian-helmet-v2-106137

---FULL INSTRUCTIONS----

1. What's inside?

You'll see folders with the body parts, named as clearly as possible. Both limbs are provided, labeled "L" or "R" to distinguish them. Some parts are flat and can be bent after with heat (boiling water or heat gun).

Pre-supported versions are tested to work, no need to turn on supports from the slicer at all.

Clean versions are provided to give you the option to add your own supports as you wish.

2. Settings Recommendations

• Silent / Stealth Mode recommended, don't risk knocking something over with violent shakes.

• 0.2 mm layers.

• 3 perimeters.

• Infill between 5 and 10%, gyroid pattern.

• 5 top layers, 3 bottom layers minimum.

• Brim 5 mm, inner and outer contours.

• Supports tree/organic, painted-on if possible.

• One part at a time, don't risk many failing. If settings work well for one, repeat.

• Orientation matters for hiding layer lines, best to have smooth flat surfaces building up, exception are the flat parts, but you can still rotate them to print standing up if you want.

3. Post-processing

3.1 Cleanup - Remove supports, brims, and any debris or imperfections.

3.2 Flat parts - use boiling water or a heat gun to heat up the flat parts and bend them into a slight curve. This works well for both thigh armor parts and the back-of-the-hand plates.  Apply little by little, several times if needed instead of excessive heat at once. Parts may melt or shells may distort in the infill if too hot too fast.

3.3 Paint - Feel free to finish the parts. A common process is: sanding > filling > priming > repeat until smooth >>> spray primer > black spray paint > graphite powder > clear coat

For a simpler process, spray paint matte black, then apply silver rub-n-buff with a sponge. 

For non-beskar parts, you can weather them with wash and dry brush highlights. 

3.4 Fastening - Parts are clean with no attachments, so you have the liberty of choosing whatever method you want. You can super-glue velcro , elastics, or embed magnets. 

4. Non-printed parts

4.1 There are lots of non-printed parts in my personal make of the costume. I will list all of them and how they were made, so you can have an idea of  how to go about it yourself.

From head to toe:

• Visor - find a template online, then print it in regular A4 paper and cut to test the fit first.  Then cut the template onto a clear sheet of plastic, like those for covers of spiral notebooks or acetate slides. I added dark film like the ones applied on car windows, applied with water and soap and a squeegee
  .

• Neck -  $2 USD hiking neck cover, it's like a scarf of light breathable thin black material, you wrap the tube around your neck over the head. It was "hooks" for the ears and a perforated piece for the nose. Tuck it into your shirt. 
  .

• Cape - cheap wool-like fabric, dark grey, about 1x2 meters. I cut holes to simulate gunshots, trimmed the bottom edge diagonal and made random cuts to simulate tear and wear. I spay-painted the edges of holes and bottom with black so it looked burnt and worn. I simply draped the top around my neck and secured it with a safety pin. Tucked it into the over-shirt that had the armor. 
  .

• Over shirt - dark brown t-shirt, trimmed like a crop top. I applied velcro to it where the armor pieces attach to. Velcro didn't stick very well so glue it, stitch it, or hot-glue the armor directly to the shirt fabric. 
  .

• Under shirt - long sleeve, textured, black sweater. I did not find dark brown. no modifications required to this garment. Tucked into pants. 
  .

• Shoulder strap - I used a guitar strap that happened to be leather and have a nice shape, it even had spots to put ammo through. I secured both ends with a twist wire.  I used the belt clips to add a little pouch and a silver small plate to it.
  .

• Front padding - black foamy cut to shape, with some abdominal details dry brushed and hot-glued on. It had velcro below to stick to the over shirt and also on top to stick the armor. 
  .

• Gloves - $2 USD weight-lifting or biking fingerless gloves. They have different patterns and breathable black fabric. Hot-glued the backhand armor pieces to them. 
  .

• Belt - my regular, every day use leather belt, worn on top of the over shirt and front padding, NOT through the pants hoops. I used the belt clips to add a pouch, ammo and bombs to it, and some other parts were just tied hanging from it. 
  .

• Pouches, holster - made with pleather (fake or plastic leather), bought online cheaply by the meter. I used templates found online to trace, cut and glue them together. Ink wash and dry brushing. Gold painted buttons. 
  .

• Boots - I used my regular hiking boots that go up to the ankles, tucked the pants into them. Then, I used scraps of brown fabric (from the cropped t shirt) to wrap them around my calves and shins like a super wide bandage, tucked into itself.  Two details are straps of pleather with foamy inserts for rigidity and thickness. Four 3D printed bullet cartridges glued onto pleather and wrapped around with velcro to my calf. 
  .

• Velcro and elastic for securing bracelets, knee guards, thigh armor. 
  

That's it! Thank you so much for printing our designs! We hope to see your make photos here or on Instagram at @openfigure3d 

OpenFigure3D is an account where several designers and 3D artists share 3D printable articulated figures & sculptures. These could be free fanarts or originals.
 

• THIS MODEL IS FREE and only on Printables, DO NOT BE FOOLED AND PAY FOR IT ELSEWHERE.
   

• Please don't publish these files elsewhere. OpenFigure3D is meant to be OPEN, contact us if you want to be a part of it, let's keep it together.
   

• This is not a professional screen-accurate cosplay, the focus is instead on ease of printing and saving time and filament - hey, it's free and fun!
   

• This is a fanart for personal use, it's not intended to replace official merchandise.

Credits:

Main photos by Dany Sánchez printed in Prusament PLA Galaxy Silver and other Amolen & Spidermaker filaments.  One photo by deundeur.

[ ! ] These models are for personal use ONLY - do not distribute digital files or sell physical reproductions.

Star Wars and all of its affiliated properties remain the intellectual property of Lucasfilm Ltd. under Disney. Characters, Names And Related Indicia Are Property of their respective owners. This model is a non-profit, fan work inspired and based on the appearances on screen. You are forbidden from selling this 3D digital file or physical print. No infringement is intended.