Onewheel Pint/X/S & Floatwheel Atom Drop Top fender + WTF/Extended/Extended WTF Drop Top fender + Pint/Atom BTG Drop Top fender

Drop Top fender for Onewheel Pint/X/S and Floatwheel Atom

Fender itself is modular and consists of 3 parts: 1 central part and 2 side parts.
18 M2.2 9.5mm (DIN7981) screws are required to assemble.

Minifender consists of two parts: front and back. These two parts are press-fit together using a tongue-and-groove joint, so no screws are required. The same applies to the mudguard press fit.

Required printer bed size is 230x230mm. I've printed my parts on Bambulab A1 and there was around 12-15mm gap to the edge of the bed from each side.

UPDATE history

v3.1: slightly thicker fender (+0.8mm), slightly thinner base (-0.3mm), much wider fender tab (tooth) (+50%), slightly bigger side tabs (teeth)
v3.1.1: reworked full base "tabs" from both sides so they do fit (those things in a green circle)

v4.0: make the tooth on the minifender bigger and the groove on the fender deeper; make fender 4mm narrower from each side for straight extended rails and wtf extended rails (mainly for esthetic purposes)

Pint/Atom BTG + WTF BTG

You'll need this version of the fender if your pint or FW Atom has bigger tire installed. StreetPro 555 for instance (11in tire).
This version of a fender has wider fender (5mm from each side), redesigned front mudguard (the original one is too narrow), and the minifenders are shifted all the way to the front/back to provide the maximum space for a tire. As you can see the width of the base is only ~10mm.
There is also two flavors of minifenders for the original rails: single minifender with vanilla full base, or two separate minifenders with shorter bases.

The Float Life custom rails

There is also a bunch of variations for custom TFL rails for pint - WTF, Extended rails, WTF Extended rails. No need for adapters.

TFL WTF rails

Different minifenders but exactly the same fender as in the "Basic" version, so you can swap the same fender between your different boards whether its Basic rails or WTF rails. The mudguard also is exactly the same as in Basic version.

TFL Extended Straight rails (Pint Slong)

This fender is much bigger than original/non-extended WTF version ~10mm longer from each side (that's how much extended rails are bigger than original pint rails) as well as ~5mm wider from each side (basically the fender is as wide as the distance between the rails in v3.1; v3.0 is slightly narrower). The "tooth"-lock is also widened. The mudguard is also widened to fit the biggest tires that can fit into these rails. No filing needed. The mudguard completely covers the motor plug/footpad sensor side (on the right), but only partially cover the "controller box - battery box" cable gasket (on the left). That's not big of an issue coz gaskets are usually waterproof. Note that the side parts of the fender are identical.

TFL Extended WTF rails (Pint Slong WTF)

Same size as for Extended Straight rails, but different minifenders - slightly bigger and inclined inwards. Same fender and same mudguard as in TFL Extended Straight version.

These bigger fenders require 250mm x 250mm printer beg at minimum. Core XY printer is desirable but bed-slinger with reduced print speed should make it as well. Bambulab A1 will print this fender no problem (you will need to play around with speed tho, coz the model is big and relatively heavy). Here is how central part of a fender looks like in a slicer:

Fender as a single part

If you own a huge 3D printer then you may want to try non-modular version of a fender. Single solid part.
Since you no longer have those borders between fender central part and fender sides, the resulting single-part fender may end up more flexible than the modular version (you no longer have those ribs ~8-10 layers thick).
So, you may want to explicitly configure 100% infill modifier for 8-10 layers on both sides (right where the modular fender is split) to emulate those stiffening ribs. Tho, with these artificial ribs you may get artifacts, coz the speed is no longer uniform between layers... You may want to experiment.

Print Advice

• PETG, PETG-HF (for a fender) or PETG-CF (I've use this one for minifenders; a bit heavier but also stronger and easier to print)

• Add outer-brim (see Others->Bed adhesion->Brim) 10mm for heavier parts (fender-central part)

• DO NOT use supports for mudguard groove - bridge will work just fine there
  Use manual support painting and explicitly EXCLUDE groove from supports (fill + right click to make it RED). Everything else should be INCLUDED (fill + left click to make it blue). Don't forget about the tooth!
  

  

• Use Concentric Bottom surface pattern and Gyroid infill

• Reduce speed and acceleration for fender-central part if you're printing on a bed-slinger. Better use progressive "Slow down by height" slicer option.

• For screw holes use 100% infill modifiers

• Highly recommend "Brim" setting, especially for bigger versions of a fender (Extended Rails, WTF Extended Rails).

Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3939014