1980–1997 OBS Ford Power Window Regulator Gear

After holding off for years on buying a replacement window gear for my 1989 Ford Ranger XLT, and then having my online order abruptly canceled by the seller 😅, I finally set out to design and print my own.

I initially intended to use ABS. However, since I don't have a printer enclosure (or a well-ventilated area), and my last attempt with ABS left me with a day-and-a-half-long headache, I chose to go with generic PETG instead.

As of uploading this model, I haven’t tested the gear in my truck yet because I wanted to take photos of it inside the housing first, but I will post an update in a day or two. That said, the printed part feels incredibly sturdy and should easily last for months, hopefully much longer! 😁

PS: Sorry if the quality of my print doesn't look the best. I'm rocking an aging Sunhokey RepRap Prusa i3. 👴🤖

Anyway... here's some technical info on the part and the print itself 👇🤓:

1980–1997 Ford Ranger / Bronco / F-Series Window Motor Gear & Bushings (45-Tooth)

Drop-in replacement for the notorious failing plastic window lift motor gear found across classic Ford trucks.

Compatibility

This gear is a direct design replacement for Ford Part Number D0AZ 62234A24-B (Reference Number 747-412). It has been meticulously measured, dialed in over 3 iterations, and test-fitted on a 1989 Ford Ranger XLT (2.9L V6).

It fits a wide variety of vintage Ford vehicles, including:

• 1983–2011 Ford Ranger & Bronco II

• 1980–1996 Ford Bronco (Bull Nose, Brick Nose, OBS)

• 1980–1997 Ford F-Series Trucks (F100, F150, F250, F350)

Specifications

• Gear Outer Diameter: 54mm (2 1/8")

• Teeth Count: 45 teeth

• Improved Hub Design: The internal triangle seat is modeled slightly tighter than the original factory plastic. This allows the center 9-tooth metal drive gear to seat securely with a tight press-fit.

• Custom Bushings Included: Files include 3 redesigned torque bushings. Unlike the original loose factory cylinders, these are custom-profiled to lock tightly into the corners of this specific gear hub.

Recommended Slicer Settings (UltiMaker Cura)

To ensure the gear teeth do not strip or shear off under the torque of the window regulator, do not use default printing profiles.

For the Main 45-Tooth Gear (Max Strength Profile):

• Material: PETG or stronger filament (Highly recommended over PLA for temperature and impact resistance inside a hot car door).

• Layer Height: 0.24mm or 0.28mm (Thicker layers yield vastly superior mechanical bond strength).

• Wall Line Count (Perimeters): 4 to 6 walls (This ensures the gear teeth are completely solid plastic).

• Top/Bottom Pattern: Change from Zig Zag/Lines to Concentric. (This forces the printer to lay down continuous rings of plastic around the central shaft, preventing structural splitting).

• Print Speed: Keep Outer Wall Speed at 50 mm/s to maximize layer fusion.

• Infill: 100% Gyroid.

For the 3 Torque Bushings:

• Infill: 80% Concentric Infill

⚠ IMPORTANT: MATERIAL & PRINTER CAVEAT ⚠

This model was designed, sliced, and fully tested on an open-frame Sunhokey RepRap Prusa i3 using generic PETG filament.

Because the print was done on an open-frame setup, the parameters above are optimized for maximum layer adhesion under room ambient temperatures.

If you have a modern, high-performance, or enclosed 3D printer, please adjust for your setup:

ABS/ASA Upgrades: If your printer has an enclosure and proper ventilation, ABS or ASA are highly recommended material upgrades for even greater structural rigidity and automotive temperature resistance. (Note: Watch your material shrinkage rates so the internal hub maintains its tight fit).

Speeds & Temps: The 50 mm/s wall speed listed above is intended to ensure perfect layer fusion on standard machines. If you are printing in ABS/ASA or using a high-speed printer, adjust your speeds, cooling fans, and nozzle temperatures to match your specific filament's maximum mechanical strength profile.