Xbox 360 Racing Wheel Stand Mount Adapter (Reversible Mod)

This adapter allows the Xbox 360 Racing Wheel to be securely mounted to a racing wheel stand using standard hardware instead of the original desk clamp.

The parts were specifically designed for the GREFINITY wheel stand, although it may also fit other wheel stands with similar mounting hole spacing.

One of the primary goals of this project was to keep the modification as reversible as possible. The wheel can be returned to its original desk-mounted configuration at any time by simply removing the adapter parts.

Important Information

To install this mod, 12 holes must be drilled into the bottom shell of the steering wheel. These are the only permanent modifications required to the wheel itself.

Additionally, I had to slightly elongate (file) two mounting holes on my GREFINITY wheel stand to achieve proper alignment.

I plan to revisit this design in the future to eliminate the need to modify the wheel stand, although I can't promise when that update will be available. I discovered the alignment issue only after I had already drilled the holes in my steering wheel. At that point, modifying the wheel stand was the less invasive option, as redesigning the adapters would have required drilling additional holes in the wheel.

Features

• Securely mounts the Xbox 360 Racing Wheel to a wheel stand.

• Designed around standard steel hardware for improved strength.

• Fully reversible installation.

• May be compatible with similar wheel stands.

Notes

• This model was designed and tested on a GREFINITY wheel stand.

• Compatibility with other wheel stands cannot be guaranteed, although similar designs may work.

Approximate Wheel Stand Mounting Hole Dimensions

Before starting this modification, compare the mounting hole pattern on your wheel stand with the dimensions shown in the image below (mm).

Required Hardware

Steering Wheel to Wheel Stand

• 4 × 3/16" × 1-1/4" machine screws

• 2 × washers (for the 3/16" screws)

Internal Adapters

• 4 × 3/16" × 5/8" machine screws

• 4 × 3/16" × 1-1/4" machine screws

• 8 × washers (for the 3/16" screws)

• 12 × 3/16" steel hex nuts

Required Tools

Steering Wheel

• T10 Security Torx screwdriver (T10H)

Adapters

• Flat-head screwdriver

• Center punch

• 3/16" (5 mm) drill bit

• Drill

Assembly Instructions

1. Disassemble the Racing Wheel

Using a T10 Security Torx screwdriver, remove the 8 screws holding the gray lap piece to the racing wheel. These screws will be reused to install some of the 3D-printed parts, so keep them safe.

This mod reuses all of the original screws from the wheel.

The original gray desk-clamp piece will no longer be needed. Store it safely in case you ever want to return the wheel to its original configuration.

2. Remove the Bottom Shell

Remove the 8 additional T10 screws securing the bottom shell of the wheel. These screws are only used to hold the shell together, so store them safely.

Separate the bottom shell from the rest of the wheel. From this point on, all modifications will be made to the bottom shell only.

3. Install the Drill Guides

Print 4× 'feet_guides'

Attach them to the bottom shell using the original T10 screws in the locations shown in the photo.

Optional: A fifth foot can also be installed, but it requires an additional screw that is not included with the racing wheel.

4. Mark the Drill Holes

Print 1× 'guide_1' and 1× 'guide_2'

Attach them to the installed 'feet_guides' as shown in the photos. Using a center punch, mark all of the drilling locations.

Guide 1

Guide 2

5. Print the Mounting Inserts

Print:

• 2× 'front_mounting_insert'

• 1× 'rear_mounting_insert_1'

• 1× 'rear_mounting_insert_2'

Important: Pause the print at the appropriate layer to insert the steel hex nuts into each part before printing resumes, as shown in the photos.

Front Mounting Inserts

Rear Mounting Inserts

I designed these parts around embedded hex nuts because heat-set inserts are not readily available to me at the time.

5.1 Recommended Print Settings

These are the settings I personally used with good results.

Mounting Inserts

• 4 walls (perimeters)

• 15% Gyroid infill

• Concentric top and bottom surface pattern

Feet

• 3 walls (perimeters)

• 15% AI infill

• Concentric top and bottom surface pattern

Other Settings

All other print settings were left at the default values provided by Creality Slicer.

6. Install the Mounting Inserts

Secure the inserts to the bottom shell:

• Front inserts: Use the 3/16" × 5/8" machine screws

• Rear inserts: Use the 3/16" × 1-1/4" machine screws

I recommend using washers on all mounting screws. Thread-locking compound is also recommended only if you don't intend to reverse the mod.

7. Reassemble the Racing Wheel

Reinstall the bottom shell using the 8 original T10 screws removed in Step 2. Before tightening them, make sure the left gray side panel is correctly positioned. Tighten the screws only until they are snug, do not overtighten them, as this may damage the plastic or strip the screw holes.

8. Install the Outer Feet

Print:

• 2× 'front_screwed_foot'

• 2× 'rear_screwed_foot'

• Attach them using the remaining original T10 screws in the locations shown in the photo.

9. Install the Pressure Feet.

Print:

• 2× 'front_mid_pressure_foot'

• 2× 'rear_mid_pressure_foot'

Install them in the locations shown in the photo.

10. Modify the Wheel Stand

Using a round (rat-tail) file, elongate the two mounting holes in the wheel stand in the direction shown in the photos.

Each slot should be approximately 10 mm long, while maintaining the original 8 mm width.

11. Prepare for Installation

Print:

• 2× 'front_separator'

• 2× 'rear_separator'

The front separators remain in place on their own, while the rear separators do not.

I recommend placing the steering wheel on your lap, positioning the rear separators, and then lowering the wheel stand plate onto the controller.

12. Mount the Wheel

Secure the racing wheel to the wheel stand using:

• 4× 3/16" × 1-1/4" machine screws.

Use washers on the rear mounting screws, as these pass through the elongated mounting holes created in Step 10.

Disclaimer

This modification is provided as-is. By following these instructions, you acknowledge that you are performing the modification at your own risk. I cannot be held responsible for any damage to your steering wheel, wheel stand, tools, or any other equipment that may occur during the installation or use of this mod.

Please take your time and work carefully, especially when drilling and filing. Double-check all measurements and hole locations before making any permanent modifications.

I have personally used this mod on my own Xbox 360 Racing Wheel for approximately four months without experiencing any issues. However, every installation is different, and I cannot guarantee the same results for every setup.

Final Notes

For mounting the pedals to the wheel stand, I simply positioned the pedal assembly where I wanted it, marked the mounting hole locations from underneath using a permanent marker, drilled pilot holes, and secured the pedals with plastic self-tapping screws.

Unfortunately, I cannot provide a drilling template or measurements.

Before drilling any holes in the pedal assembly, I strongly recommend opening the pedal housing to identify where it is safe to drill. Make sure your chosen locations will not interfere with any internal components, wiring, or mechanisms.

Also, ensure that the screws are only long enough to pass through the wheel stand and the pedal housing. Screws that are too long may protrude into the pedal assembly and damage internal components.

Personal Notes

I've been using the Xbox 360 Racing Wheel with Assetto Corsa and Assetto Corsa EVO on PC, and it has worked great for me. To use the wheel on PC, you'll need the official Xbox 360 Wireless Gaming Receiver (or a compatible equivalent).

While it doesn't offer the steering angle or driving feel of a modern dedicated sim racing wheel, I think it's an excellent low-budget entry into sim racing if you already own one.

To complete my setup, I also designed and 3D printed a clutch pedal that uses an Arduino Leonardo as a USB controller.

One thing I noticed is that enabling the in-game force feedback in either Assetto Corsa or Assetto Corsa EVO occasionally causes my wheel to disconnect. Disabling the game's force feedback has completely eliminated that issue for me. The wheel still uses its own built-in centering and resistance mechanism, which I find perfectly adequate for casual sim racing.

Of course, your experience may vary depending on your hardware, drivers, and game settings.

If you have any questions or would like more information about setting up and using the Xbox 360 Racing Wheel on PC with Steam, feel free to send me a direct message. I'll be happy to help if I can.