Ortho48v2 Angled Case

I needed an office keyboard, and had an Ortho48v2 kit ready to build, but I didn't like the ergonomics of the flat Ortho48, so I built a smaller, thinner case for simple transportation, re-using existing components offered with the kit. 

When built, the total design weighs approximately 400g, has a 7 degree typing angle and measures 36mm tall from the bottom of the case to the top of the highest key-cap. This design has no noise damping, so if using in an office environment and typing fast I recommend using "silent" switches to avoid drawing the office's ire. 

Material used: PETG (PLA untested)

Nozzle used: 0.6mm

Printing recommendations: 

• Print both pieces on their sides, and enable automatic support painting. There are a number of structures on the left side that are difficult to print without automatic supports. (The STLs already do this.) 

• Paint custom seams on the finished bottom of the print (in the slicer, this will be a vertical side). Non-custom seams tend to go to internal corners where surfaces mate, requiring some post-processing. 

Assembly:

1. Insert the standoffs into the print - 2 into the corners, 2 into the visible posts. (Image 3)

2. Insert the smaller nuts for the universal daughterboard into the bottom two slots on the left print. Try to make sure they align with the holes above, but this is difficult. (Image 4)

3. Connect one end of the cable to the universal daughterboard, and insert the daughterboard into the large slot. (Images 5, 6)

4. Insert the screws for the daughterboard in from the top two holes, and screw it in. This will take a few tries, sorry. I stuck pliers down the hole to get the nuts to centre, then tried to screw it in, which worked half the time. (Image 8)

5. Insert the plate (attached to keyswitches and PCB) into the top slot on the left side. Make sure the corner standoff is still in. (Image 9)

6. Using two standoff screws, screw the plate in. (Image 10)

7. Connect the daughterboard cable to the PCB. If you wish to tape this down, do it now. (Images 11, 12)

8. Insert the bottom plate into the lower slot. (Image 13)

9. Repeat steps 1, 5 and 6 for the right-hand side (Images 14, 1)

Notes:

• This design isn't perfect. Its low mass and central opening means that noise is amplified - as recommended above, use "silent" switches to avoid drawing the office's attention. 

• The top is the only thing securing the entire build together - the bottom edge holds the case in vertically, but isn't actually attached to the top. You can modify the case to remove most of this bottom edge, or extend the back to join the top and bottom together. 

• I have a print that failed at around 86% that is what I use day-to-day - so long as the print exceeds the second standoff, the print can be cancelled without usage issues. 

Original design files are attached as STEP and F3D files, modify away!