Top cover veteran Sherman / max

"Well, this project took me exactly 24 hours. The cover on my electric unicycle broke, and it was so badly damaged that it was completely beyond repair. I scanned what was left of it and modeled a new cover that seemed to be a perfect fit. I sent it to print and measured it in the morning. To my surprise, it fit! Naturally, it needed some tweaks—for instance, the buttons fit into their slots but, to my surprise, refused to click. Trusting my gut, I made a few adjustments, widened the button holes, and sent it to reprint. During those eight long hours, I was figuring out what to do with the screen glass. After 3D printing it on a resin printer, I realized I wasn't happy with the result, as it was unlikely to be durable under these operating conditions. So, I turned to laser-cutting plexiglass, and they cut me a piece that fit perfectly into place. In the end, a third print attempt wasn't even necessary, since all I really had to do was chamfer the edges of the button holes—and everything came together perfectly.

Now to the point. Obviously, this model has its flaws, but I'm sure some kind soul will fix them and give the world a completely perfect model. For now, though: rotate the acrylic glass in different planes until it slides in easily—the laser doesn't cut perfectly and leaves a slight taper, so it might fit tighter one way than the other. The buttons might not click on the first try, depending on your printer. Just chamfer the holes (widen them a bit), and the buttons will click perfectly. I used the original buttons. This model fits both the Sherman and the Sherman Max, but I haven't tested it for waterproofness yet. I glued the buttons from the inside with cyanoacrylate, so they shouldn't let water through, and tomorrow I'll apply some sealant. The glass also needs to be sealed—both inside between the glass and the plastic, and along the seams—to make it watertight. Since both the cover on my Sherman Max broke and the screen film on the Sherman leaked, I’m going to test both of them for leaks. In theory, there shouldn't be anywhere for water to leak into; as usual, it should mostly drain into the handle rather than the controller. But who knows...

The work, that is planned for September (or earlier, if water gets into the monowheel). The following adjustments will be made:

The mating angles between the cover and the body surface will be corrected.

The diameter of the button holes will be increased by 0.5–1 mm.

The triangular pieces will be trimmed — especially the right rear one (or the left front one; I don’t remember exactly), or possibly all of them. This will allow using M3×10 screws instead of the original M3×12 ones.