Su-34 Fullback print-in-place micro attack aircraft

Changes in the description

Check the cleaning section for detailed instruction for this model

About the Su-34 Fullback

The Sukhoi Su-34 (Russian: Сухой Су-34; NATO reporting name: Fullback) is a Soviet-origin Russian twin-engine, twin-seat, all-weather supersonic medium-range fighter-bomber/strike aircraft. It first flew in 1990, intended for the Soviet Air Forces, and it entered service in 2014 with the Russian Air Force.

Based on the Sukhoi Su-27 Flanker air superiority fighter, the Su-34 has a wider, armoured cockpit with side-by-side seating for its two pilots. The Su-34 was designed primarily for tactical deployment against ground and naval targets (tactical bombing/attack/interdiction roles, including against small and mobile targets) on solo and group missions in daytime and at night, under favourable and adverse weather conditions and in a hostile environment with counter-fire and electronic warfare (EW) counter-measures deployed, as well as for aerial reconnaissance. The Su-34 is planned to eventually replace the Su-24 tactical bomber and the Tu-22M long-range bomber.

About the model itself

There are hundereds of fighter models across the Internet.

Some of them focus on capturing all details to faithfully depict the aircraft's presence. However they're not great for FDM 3D printing. Due to sharp wings, complicated landing gear or engine nozzles, it is really difficult to achieve good results especially in a smaller scale. they also reqire a ton of supports, that not always work reliably.

On the other side of the spectrum we have simple aircraft designed with 3D printing in mind. With apropriate shaping they are easy to print and very robust, but they frequently have distorted proportions or lack important detail compared to the original plane.

I tried my best to fill that gap by combining the advantages of both of these groups. The goal was to make a model that exploits all of the printer capabilities without coliding with it's physical limitations. This way I was able to create an equivalent of a "Hot wheels" car, but for aviation fans. The pocket size makes them easy to carry and place anywhere. I spent a lot of time and effort adjusting wing thickness, landing gear design, learning from mistakes and improving the quality with every attempt. I also always include my own supports to ensure that all of the critical parts are secured. While following all of the technical requrements I also made sure that every model is unique and looks just like the real jet.

Printing

• High quality settings, 0.12mm-0.15mm layer height (I am using 0.12mm)

• 0.4mm nozzle

• NO supports (unless you choose a version without them)

• 100% infill 

• I reccomend to use raft to ensure that the model will not peel off mid-printing.

• Printing (on my 3D printer) takes from 1h to 1h 40minutes depending on settings, printer efficiency and the size of a jet.

• I recommend NOT to scale down the model, because some parts (air intakes, engines, nose) might be deformed, or not even printed, because they will become too thin for the slicer and printer. I also do not guarantee good results when scaling up.

Cleaning the model

Here's a small instruction how to remove the unnecessary parts after printing.

The photos show a MiG-29, but the instructions apply to all models.

First, remove the raft with side cutters.

Then find the gaps in the wings (marked with red arrows). Don't forget about the engines and stabilizers.

CAREFULLY break the supports with pliers, I do not reccomend to use hands, because the wing may break along the layers, not where it should be.

When removing the canard supports on the Su-34 you need to be super caucious. The supporting pillar under the wing is divided into two parts. First remove every support except the main wing and canard one's. Then while holding firmly both the canard and upper end of the support try to twist, crack and bend or break away the lower part of the pillar. Then you can remove the remaining part while holding the canard with pliers along the perforation line (it is really difficult to do correctly with bare hands).

Remember, that even if something breaks or cracks, there is usually no need to print the model again. Sometimes it is enough to glue the damaged part with super glue. 

You can also smooth the wings with a small file or sandpaper and burn the strings with a lighter.

Additional information

If you like my aircraft models leave a like and post some pictures of your prints in the comment section. There you can also report some issues or bugs you noticed or problems you encountered so we can figure out how to fix them. You can also share your ideas about new models I could make.

I would like to point out that I am not a professional and I treat creating models for 3D printing as a hobby. Therefore, I am asking for your understanding towards my work.

I wish you successful printing and lots of fun!