Shapeoko Bitzero V1 to V2 upgrade

I have a Shapeoko CNC and it came with a Bitzero V1.  This works ok but eventually I got very tired of having to select which bit I was using from the drop down menu every single time and there is no option to default it to the bit I use 90% of the time.  I then found out that the bitzero V2 works the same regardless of what bit you have in the chuck so I wanted to upgrade but I did not want to spend over $100 on the official solution.  This is designed for people with a bitzero V1 to convert it to a bitzero V2 without losing any functionality.

It uses the existing anti bounce circuitry inside the bitzero V1 so that it works exactly as well with no additional electronics needed.  

If you already have a DIY bitsetter then you can just splice it in with the DIY bitsetter wire.  Even if you have a bitzero V2 already and a DIY bitsetter since the bitsetter only works if the bitzero is in it's holder you might like to use this so you don't have to worry about forgetting to put your OEM bitzero back in its holder and then when the bit goes to press the button it won't stop and destroys your button (this has happened to me)

Print this with whatever material you want using 0.2mm layer height.  I suggest printing it solid so it has a bit of weight to help it stay put but you could print it with infill and add weights to it (such as adhesive car rim balancing weights you can get from amazon or glue on washers or pennies).  I used 4 stick on tire weights because I already had them.  You don't really need the weights but it just helps it to stay in place better.

Use an M6 heatset insert in the small top hole.  You could modify the model to use a different size bolt/heatset insert but I had a bunch of rarely used M6s so that's what this model uses.

Cover the surface with copper tape that has conductive adhesive (can be found on Amazon).  The tape doesn't need to be on the entire surface but it needs to connect the heatset insert to the larger hole in the corner, it also needs to be placed all along the side wall of that larger hole.  The tape needs to all be overlapping so it makes a complete circuit.  The tape does not need to go into the bottom of the hole.  The hole is only for X and Y, Z is probed on the top of this unit automatically.

Put a ring terminal onto a wire.  Best to use flexible wire so that it doesn't tug the bitzero out of place during use.  Put an M6 bolt through the ring terminal and screw it into the heatset insert.  I used half of a speaker wire as it has a high strand count so is very flexible.  The bolt cannot extend out of the heatset insert because the hole in the model can't go through so the bolt must be under 9mm long.  If your bolt is over 9mm then put the ring terminal on it, screw a M6 nut onto it to trap the ring terminal and act as a spacer, and then screw that into the heatset insert.  I like to just screw it straight through the copper tape to make sure that the connection is good.

Mount Bitzero V1 in any one of the available bitzero holders you can find on here but put a bolt or some sort of conductive item inside the holder so that it touches the outside of the bitzero V1.  Attach the wire from the bitzero V2 to this bolt to create a circuit.  If you are already using a DIY bitsetter then you can just splice this wire into the wire already going from your bitzero holder into the button on the DIY bitsetter.

Test that it works by touching the ground clip from the bitzero V1 to the foil tape inside the hole.  If the light on the bitzero V1 goes from green to red then it's working as it should.  The bitzero V1 now should always just be kept in the holder so that it is touching that bolt.  There is no reason to ever remove it from the holder although if for some reason you wanted to use the V1 again you can do so without disconnecting the V2 from it.  It is still completely functional but must be in the holder for the V2 to work.

Test it with a bit by going through the probe sequence for X Y and Z.  The X and Y should be perfect, the Z might be a little too close to the material.  If it is just add a layer or two more copper tape to get it just the way you like it.  For me 3 layers of tape was just right.  The tape is very thin.

I know this might not be the most elegant solution but it works and saves $120