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Custom Arca-swiss standard L Bracket for Hasselblad X2D — zdjęcie 1
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Custom Arca-swiss standard L Bracket for Hasselblad X2D

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A custom made L bracket to fit the Hasselblad X2D exactly.

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Źródło
Printables
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Photo & Video
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

I wanted a custom L bracket for my Hasselblad X2D and couldn't find what I wanted on the market. I didn't want to use a cage to make the camera heavier and bulkier, and didn't want a full bottom plate, just something light-weight that is quick and easy to mount on the camera only when needed. I believe the X2D2 is absolutely identical when it comes to body and dimension, so it should fit the same way.

This is meant to fit the body of the camera and because of that, it's easy to install it for those of us with only 2 hands.  The bracket has center marks as well as marks for the camera's focal plane, which will be useful for a nodal plate (see my other models).

This is meant to be a multi-material and multi-color model, so not the easiest to print. The top layers should preferably be printed in TPU, to avoid scratching the body of the camera as much as possible.

For the main parts, I used Polymaker's Fiberon (ASA-CF08). I don't recommend printing this out of PLA. I also don't recommend straight-up PETG either, as that's just too bendy. Some PETG-GF and PETG-CF blends might work too. I also used Sainsmart matte TPU, and some white PETG for the marks. Feel free to experiment :)

I printed mine with 3 shells and 25% gyroid infill. More shells is probably better, but more importantly, activate the "interface shells" advanced option in multi-material, to ensure hard top layers under the TPU.

The bottom part requires support. I recommend organic supports, as that will be easier to remove with 0.2(detachable) setting, and set the pattern angle to 45 degree. Then just use a flat tool to pop it all out.

For the multiple extruder print, set the bed temperature extruder to your main filament extruder, and set the Support material/raft interface and Support material /raft/skirt extruder to the same, this will prevent the slicer from using multiple materials in the supports (only works for organic supports), as that will cause removal problems.

Also needed: 

I added a small plug that should be printed out of TPU to prevent the screw from falling of the base. I ended up preferring this to using a threaded hole.

Using an M3 tap for a few mm in the screw holes makes it easier to start the screws in. Work the screws for a while inside the clearance holes to make sure they can slide. I prefer to keep all of that tight to prevent misalignment.

IMPORTANT NOTE:  Obviously this is made of plastic. I don't know how much time it will last. It should be fairly solid with the right filament, but not if someone hangs on it like a chimpanzee. Please exercise judgment before deciding to use it with your expensive camera. I think the TPU should minimize risks of scratching the body, but I haven't tried to scratch mine on purpose.

My website: https://www.davidpichevin.com

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