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U1 TOP BASE RISER for U1 and Popcap w CHAMFER for LEDs — zdjęcie 1
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U1 TOP BASE RISER for U1 and Popcap w CHAMFER for LEDs

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Updated frame with LED for the Snapmaker U1 Cover and Biqu Popcap

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Źródło
Printables
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Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial

This now contains 3 sets of files. The FrontLeftCorner plate and FrontRightCorner plate contain the front corners and middle pieces that are used with each of the top plates. The top plates are for the Official Snapmaker U1 Cover (two versions) and the Biqu PopCap. All pieces are dovetailed to make easier connections. On the two Snapmaker plates one is contoured for the cable area and the other is just squared off (different style). I made complete thru holes and locating pins also on a plate can be used where the silicon corner pads are to ensure the top doesn't shift around. Because of the U1 Cover and the connecting feet, it was easy to make the hole so it fits in there. I did use the "connector helpers" from the Wiki page but don't believe they are really necessary. This frame was printed with Inslogic PETG Pro but you may want to consider ASA or ABS if using the Panda Breath heater. https://wiki.snapmaker.com/en/resource_hub/top_cover_seating

Also to make this work, I added a male to female 6-pin Molex 3.0 extension. This was made from a kit on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C8J9ZGFF?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_10 and LEDs are https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BYJ8C2RG?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1 You might be able to use TPU plugs for the holes too.

The LEDs are reinforced with double sided tape and there is a slot for the cord at the back of the frame.

The back sits on top of the frame due to the odd way the top is shaped.  I continue to work on refining that but if any one else wants to take a shot at it, please do so. I think that if the back can get contoured correctly, the middle pieces could be shorted by 1 or 2 mm and it would allow the top to sit flat.

Tagi