HIVEPILOT V1 - Open-source Modular Automated Hive Management

Introduction to HIVEPILOT

What is HIVEPILOT?

HIVEPILOT is a modular, open-source automated hive management system designed to make hive management easier. V1 combines an automatic entrance, adjustable ventilation and temperature monitoring, all controlled by an Arduino Nano.

HIVEPILOT is designed to be simple to build, easy to customise and expandable with future modules.

Features of HIVEPILOT

• An automatic door

• An automatic vent with adjustable angles

• A temperature sensor module

• Advanced scheduling with RTC

• Long-lasting rechargeable battery system (18650 batteries)

• Modular, not a single product; you can add more modules and functionality

• Easy to build

• Arduino platform

• Open source

Why use HIVEPILOT?

Beehives experience changing environmental conditions throughout the year. HIVEPILOT aims to make managing ventilation and entrance size easier by responding to temperature and scheduled settings. It is designed to be adaptable to different hive sizes and designs, although some custom mounting holes or modifications may be required.

I also strongly support open-source hardware. That is why HIVEPILOT is released fully open source under the CERN OHL-S-V2. You have the freedom to remix and share whatever custom hardware modifications you make! Just remember, please do credit me when you share the models, and share them under CERN OHL-S-V2 as well.

Are you ready to build your own HIVEPILOT unit? Read on!

Bill of Materials

• about 500g ASA

• about 20g TPU

• 16x Flat head #8 or M4 wood screws (outer diameter under 4.4mm)

• 1x MG995/MG996R servo

• 1x MG90S servo (don't use the SG90 because the plastic gears will break)

• 1x DS18B20 waterproof temperature sensor

• 1x Arduino Nano

• 2× matched 18650 Li-ion batteries. Higher-capacity cells can provide longer operating time. Use cells from a reputable manufacturer and do not mix different cells.

• 1x dual 18650 holder (make sure the screw holes are in the middle of it, 55mm apart)

• 1x LM2596S buck converter

• 1x DS3231 real-time clock

• 1x half sized breadboard

• Optional: 3x 5mm LEDs

• Highly recommended: blade fuse rated at 5A, in case the battery shorts

Print instructions:

Vent_Grille_ASA part

For this one, set the perimeters/wall count to 6 or 7 and top/bottom shells to 0. Set infill to Grid or Rectilinear 60%. This gives a mesh-like area which bees cannot pass through but allows cool air through to cool down the hive. Print using ASA and follow the post-processing instructions. However, when applying acetone, do not put it over the infill mesh part. For ease of slicing, you can also use the .3mf provided.

All other printed parts

Print everything once, except for Vent_Vent-flap-2_ASA and ArduinoHousing_M3-washer_TPU; these are to be printed twice each. I have named the model files with ASA and TPU, corresponding to what material they should be printed in. Be careful with supports as it can mess up the tolerances if done wrong. It is recommended to print the ASA parts with ASA, of course, but you can use any filament that is UV resistant and tough. I have provided two .3mf files in the print files section, which are sliced for the Core ONE using Prusament ASA.

Post-processing after the prints

Before installing the ASA parts onto your hive, be sure to smooth them with acetone to make them waterproof and leave them out in the open air for a few days so that the bees don't get agitated by ASA fumes. ASA releases fumes for a while after it is printed, and these fumes can cause the bees to abscond (leave) the hive.

TPU parts don't need post-processing besides the supports.

Assembly instructions

Electronics housing

The parts required are:

• All parts in the "Electronics housing" folder, with the M3 washer printed twice

• 3x M4/#8 wood screws

• Arduino Nano

• LM2596S buck converter

• Half breadboard

• Dual 18650 battery holder (make sure it is series not parallel)

• 2x 18650 battery

Steps:

1. Place the Arduino Nano on the breadboard.

   

2. Solder the battery holder's positive wire onto the IN+ pad of the buck converter, and the negative wire onto the IN- pad. IMPORTANT: NEVER HAVE BATTERIES IN THE HOLDER WHILE SOLDERING! YOU MAY SHORT-CIRCUIT THEM AND BLOW THEM UP! Note in the image, because I don't have a battery holder, I just show the buck converter

   

3. Place the breadboard, the buck converter, and the battery holder into their respective compartments.

   

4. Screw in the battery holder using M3 screws and nuts. Put the TPU washers into the holes and screw tightly to make it watertight.

   

5. Place the 3x LED holder into the holes provided. Even if you aren't using LEDs, it seals the holes.

   

6. Put the little seal (the TPU cable gland part) into the hole on the left side of the box. The servo and temperature sensor will go through here. When I was printing this, I didn't have the seal so there is no image :(

7. Put the gasket on the edges of the main body and ensure it is pressed down tight.

   

8. Before putting the lid on, connect the OUT+ and OUT- pads of the buck converter to the + and - columns of the breadboard respectively.

9. Clip the lid on.

   

Automatic Door

The parts required are:

• All parts in the "Automatic door parts" folder

• MG995 or MG996R servo with at least 180 degrees rotation (MG996R is ideal because it's tougher)

• 4-armed horn for the servo

• 3x M4/#8 wood screws

Steps:

1. Place the MG995/MG996R into the slot.

   

2. Place the TPU gasket onto the servo slot's edges.

   

3. Place the TPU seal (the small part) over the servo's axle.

   

4. Attach the servo horn.

   

5. Place the lid over the TPU gasket, clipping it tight.

   

6. Slide the door through the mounting bracket, making sure the gear rack side is facing the servo. Slide it to the "closed" position as desired.

   

7. Turn the servo to its maximum rotation position, so that when it turns it opens the door.

8. Place the gear onto the servo horn. It doesn't stick, but don't worry! When you press it against your hive it will stay.

   

9. Screw the whole assembly onto your hive.

10. Wire the servo's positive wire to the + column of the breadboard, and same for the negative wire.

11. Wire the servo's information pin to one of the Arduino's digital pins.

Vents

The parts required are:

• All parts from the "vent parts" folder, with the Vent-2 part being printed twice

• MG90S servo with metal gear

• 1-armed horn for the servo

• 6x M4/#8 wood screws

Steps:

1. Insert the MG90S into the slot on the mount part.

   

2. Place the TPU seal over the side.

   

3. Clip the lid over the side seal and the servo.

   

4. Place the small TPU axle seal over the axle.

   

5. Attach the servo horn.

6. Rotate the servo horn to its maximal rotation clockwise. Re-attach the servo horn if required, so it is horizontal when the servo is lying down.

7. Attach the first vent onto the servo arm. You may want to use blu-tack or hot glue to temporarily hold it there.

   

8. Place the second and third vents into the slots.

9. On the second frame part, slide the gear rack in.

   

10. Slide the second frame part and the gear rack onto the end of the vent flaps. Make sure the whole thing doesn't fall apart!

    

11. Clip the grille onto the bottom. This holds the whole thing together.

    

12. Wire the MG90S servo in the same way as the other one.

DS18B20 temperature sensor

The parts required are:

• The DS18B20 mount print

• A DS18B20

• 2x M4/#8 wood screws

Steps:

1. Thread the DS18B20 through the mount wires-first to avoid stripping the cover off.

2. Drill a hole in the wall of your beehive that is 10mm in diameter.

3. Insert the mount and screw it in place.

You're done with assembly!

Installation and customisation

Before installation on a hive with bees

Check that everything works without error. You don't want the doors to jam or the batteries to short while HIVEPILOT is on your beehive.

Installation

The electronics housing is simple to install. Simply screw it onto your hive's wall, in a spot where it is close enough to the door and vent so you can connect the wires.

The door is similar. Slide the door panel to your desired "closed" position, and ensure the servo is at the maximum degree of rotation anticlockwise as viewed from the top. Attach the gear on and screw the door assembly to its desired spot. If you want, you can add a cover over the top so rain doesn't leak into the hive.

For the vents, you will need to cut a rectangular hole in your hive approximately 75 by 100 millimetres. You may wish to keep the part you took out in case you want to reverse the mod. Install the vents over this hole. Like the door, you could add a cover, so no water gets in the vent.

For the DS18B20 Temperature sensor mount, drill a 10mm circular hole into your hive and simply plug the whole thing in before screwing it using 4mm wood screws.

HIVEPILOT can be installed on almost any hive, from P-Hives to my janky homemade wooden hive. Like I stated in post-processing, be sure to leave the ASA out so the bees don't get affected by it. 

Customisation and mods

HIVEPILOT is just a hardware platform. You can add any mods you want and code it yourself! In the future, I will write some code for it and post it on my Github page. You can integrate several electronics parts like a real-time clock module or a light sensor, allowing for scheduling or shade deployment, etc. If you wish to add anything else, feel free to remix this model and post your mods! Just remember to publish your model under the CERN OHL-S V2.

Notes when adding code: remember to make the servo movements slow, otherwise the bees may get crushed by the door and vent. You should also make the Arduino sleep in between movements, and only wake every 15 minutes or so, to avoid battery drainage.

Have fun printing!

-Nam

Disclaimer: please note that the images for all the assembly instructions are made using my PLA prototypes. I don't have enough ASA to print the real thing. I am also missing some bits and pieces due to various reasons like support removal (that's why you use tree support) or older model versions. So, don't worry if your HIVEPILOT doesn't look exactly like the images!