Rivian R2 Customizable Console Organizer

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👉  Rivian R1 Owners: Check out the original Rivian R1 Version
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UPDATES

September 20, 2026

• Added accessories .3mf here to make it easier to find (was only part of the R1 version prior).

September 17, 2026

• The front notch was lowered by 1.5mm to allow the top bin to clear a torch/flashlight.

• Updated the holes for magnets to make inserting the magnets easier but still remain stable.  This is now just a normal 45 degree angle and a bridge so it should print cleaner.

  

• New models include version numbers from Fusion 360 to more easily track changes.

Overview

Designed for the Rivian R2, this adjustable console organizer brings the functionality of my original R1 design to the new center console layout.

• Modular Accessories: The chevron pattern acts as an attachment point for optional add-ons. These are included in the attached .3mf file (see the original R1 model page for details on each accessory).

What’s new in the R2 version:

Rivian Power Bank storage

I've designed specific tolerances so you can securely store a Rivian power bank/hand warmer along the side or even in the new front notch for easy/quick access.  The tapered walls should hold it in place and keep it from rattling or rolling around.  You can even store two in both locations and they will not hit each other.  The top bin is sized so that it will slide over it without hitting.

R2 Dimensions

Trapezoidal shape

The R2 center console is notably smaller and the walls are unfortunately just plain plastic instead of the nice lined walls on the R1.  But even more interesting is that while the R1's left/right walls are parallel, the walls on the R2 flare out slightly toward the front.  This means that having a sliding bin on top ends up potentially falling between the walls.  Luckily, each wall only tapers about 1 degree so it's not much to account for, but I still had to add some extra wall spacers up top.  This should keep the walls parallel for the bin to slide on.   You might still notice a very slight gap between these spacers and the walls, which is intentional.  I test fit a few R2s and they fit slightly differently in each and I didn't want the risk of being too tight and binding against the top bin. We're talking <1mm here.

Longer rails

I've made the top rails extend further toward the front compared to the original R1 version.  This should prevent the top bin from falling off the end if you push it all the way forward.  The top bin WILL slide under the top ledge where the light strip is. Of course, only if you don't have stuff in the bin too tall. :)

Removed booklet bump

The R1 storage compartment had an elastic band on the back where the manual lived.  The R1 version of this had a bump out to accommodate for that.  Since the R2 doesn't have that and has glove boxes for the other things, the extra bump out was removed.  I kept the small gap in the back, though, so you can still slide in your state parks pass or whatever else you feel like storing back there.  My California state parks pass leaves about 1 inch exposed to be able to still grab it, but I didn't get a photo of that.

Magnets

The magnets are identical to the R1 version.  They're 6mm x 2mm circles, spaced 19mm apart.  I suggest starting with only 2 magnets per side on the top bin, in the outer holes.  This gives the best "feel", in my opinion, where it's not difficult to slide but is stable.  Of course feel free to adjust to suit your needs, but you cannot easily remove magnets without damaging the bin.

Additionally, start with magnets on the base to lock the top bin in the rear-most position.  This would put magnets in positions 1 and 4 counting from the back, assuming you installed magnets only on the outer two positions of the top bin.  You might want to experiment before you fill the sides completely.  The only way I've found to remove the magnets is to poke a needle through the back to pop them out but that does damage things slightly.  The damage will be visible on the top bin but hidden on the base.

As for orientation, choose a polarity and have that polarity always face an imaginary plane running along the center of the unit.  This lets the top bin get installed in any orientation and it will always work properly.  The (N) north side is generally red and (S) south side is generally blue.  Here's a visual representation of what I mean having all (N) sides facing the center:

Youtube short showing magnet install: https://youtube.com/shorts/EE4SsicJOzY

Printing

• These instructions are just for the R2 base and top bin.  For accessories, see the original model.

• I have used PETG for the version in my R1 for the last 2 years and it seems fine.

• 0.4mm nozzle; 0.2mm layer height.

• 0.2mm STRUCTURAL profile

• 2 perimeters

• 15% gyroid infill

• Hilbert Curve top fill pattern

  • Helpful to hide scratches

  • I use on the base and top, but not important on the accessories

  • I enable “single perimeter on top surfaces”

• No supports for PETG

  • I haven't used supports, but the ledge on the top bin is a 30 degree angle.  If you print ASA or something else that can't handle that, you might need to enable supports.

• I painted seams to make sure they were in less visible areas.

Accessories

The chevron pattern acts as an attachment point for optional add-ons. These are included in the attached .3mf file (see the original R1 model page for details on each accessory).  Use the following print settings for the clips:

• enable “snug” supports everywhere

• use “concentric” interface pattern for supports

• here's an example of the supports for the clips

  

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