Logitech Driving Force GT Paddle Shift remix set for 6x 40mm M5 bolts w/ Carbon Fiber look Paddles

Parts Required:
*M5 40mm bolts x 6
*M5 lock nuts x 6
*Super Glue for paddle Inserts
*Carbon Textured Build plate (to make paddles/parts look nice.)

So after doing a bit of a search to find the right collection of parts which worked well DFGT paddles, I found RUIAM3D's set, which was an improvement over MAPE's original design as the parts moved more freely and would not bind up. RUI's front panel also fit a lot nicer than the original (not knocking Mapes original, it's still a fantastic concept/design!).

I've seen some other designs for the DFGT without the front plate, and while they look cleaner I do like that this is completely reversible/not stuck on with double sided tape, and feels solidly locked on.

Anyway, the reason for the remix is I only had 40mm M5 bolts on hand, so I modified RUI's backplate with recessed holes to be able to use the same 40mm sized bolts as used in the Paddles (rather than longer 50/60mm bolts). 

I've included a helper tool for the backplate to help push the M5 nuts up into their recessed holes.
Put the nut on the end of the helper tool, push the nut into the hole then while holding it in place  screw in the M5 bolt.

So after adapting that, I decided I wanted larger paddles that I saw in a Furysamurai72 remix. I printed them, and then thought they'd look fantastic with Carbon Fiber Texture on both sides and in two tone with a coloured legend. To make that happen I cut out inserts from the paddles so both sides could be printed on a carbine fiber texture build plate.

RUJIAM3D's modified connecting pieces were also used on the paddles so they won't bind up (this could just be my own printers accuracy here, but I'd found most of these designs based on MAPE's original bind up with M5 bolts for me and needed post processing/drilling out)

The Paddle inserts are designed to snap into place in the Paddles tightly, but you definitely want to superglue them in place. I used a Bambu A1 printer, I'm not exactly sure if the tolerances will work for your printer, but if they're too tight I'd suggest very carefully sanding the edges of the inserts down until they fit, or using a deburring tool to whittle away some of the material.

If you're new to 3d printing, Clean your build plate thoroughly!
Oil from fingerprints on your plate will make your prints lift, and the paddles/inserts really need to not lift/bend on the plate.

Should not need any supports, but on the back plate the spring slots may need to be tidied up with needle nose pliers/tweezers if your printers bridging capabilities are subpar. 

Also, before mounting the back/front plate to the wheel, make sure you take your 40mm M5 bolts and ream them through the holes to free them up from any stray filament that did not bridge correctly.

Please print the inserts the orientation as opened in your slicer, they are in the correct build plate orientation to allow their face surface to have the build plate texture 

Would actually suggest using the carbon texture build plate for all parts, definitely improves the look, and  the front plate also looks particularly nice with it in black.