FRICTION CLAMP PEGS

FRICTION CLAMP PEGS FOR 10mm HOLES

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Printed friction tuning pegs for a peghead with plain, straight 10mm

holes, such as holes drilled for banjo-style tuners that you can't find

or that won't stay put.

I made these for my soprano rebec, a remix of alleycat's "Alto Rebec"

here on Printables. Its head is drilled for banjo tuners I couldn't

source, and these pegs fit the existing holes, so there's no reprint of

the neck. I'm publishing them as a project of their own because I plan

to use them, and variations on them, in future instruments.

HOW THEY WORK

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A violin peg holds by wedging a tapered peg into a tapered hole. A

straight hole can't do that, so these pegs hold by CLAMPING instead,

the way a ukulele friction tuner does:

- The POST goes in from the front. Its shoulder bears on the front

face, its shaft runs through the hole, and the string winds on its

front end. A D-shaped tang sticks out at the back.

- The KNOB goes on from the back, over the tang, so turning the knob

turns the post.

- An M3 countersunk self-tapping screw goes down the middle of the

knob into the post and draws the two together. How far you tighten

it sets how firmly the peg turns.

Everything turns together, screw included, so tuning never loosens it.

The turning force goes through the D-shaped tang, not the screw.

FILES

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Friction_Clamp_Pegs_Set_of_3_for_10mm_hole_M3x16.stl

Three posts and three knobs on one plate. Start here.

Friction_Clamp_Peg_Post_for_10mm_hole.stl

One post, for spares or more than three strings.

Friction_Clamp_Peg_Knob_for_10mm_hole_M3x16.stl

One knob, for fitting with no washer (the normal version).

WILL THEY FIT YOUR HOLES?

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Hole diameter: 10mm, straight (not tapered).

Hole length: made for 12mm, measured from the front face to

where the knob will sit (the back face, or the floor

of a counterbore). About 11.5 to 13mm should still

clamp; much outside that and they won't.

Counterbores: the knob has a 16.8mm boss that drops into a 17.5mm

counterbore if your head has one. On a flat back it

simply sits on the face.

Spacing: each knob sweeps a circle about 23.5mm across as it

turns. Allow that between neighbouring pegs, plus

room for a finger.

YOU WILL ALSO NEED

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- One M3 x 16mm countersunk self-tapping screw per peg.

PRINTING

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The STLs are already laid out in print orientation. No supports needed.

- Posts lie on their side, on a flat along the shaft. This runs the

layers along the post, so the sideways pull of the string runs

along the filament rather than peeling layers apart.

- Knobs stand on their front face.

- 100% infill for both. They're small, and the post is under load.

Mine were printed on a Creality K1 in PLA, 0.24mm layer height,

100% infill.

FITTING

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1. Push a post through the hole from the front and check that it turns

freely.

2. Put a knob on from the back, over the tang.

3. Drive the screw in until the peg turns firmly but smoothly.

4. Thread the string through the hole in the post and wind it back

toward the shoulder, so it pulls close to the face.

If a peg creeps flat under string tension, give its screw a quarter

turn.

Expect them to be stiff at first. Mine needed pliers to turn at the

start and freed up to finger-turning after a little use, as the

printed surfaces wore in. That's normal and not a failed print; ease

the screw off slightly if one is too stiff to tune with.

LICENCE

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CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.