James Bond Aston Martin DB5 Gear Shift Knob with Ejector-Seat Button (Thrustmaster TH8S)
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Bond DB5 shift knob for Thrustmaster TH8S: flip the lid, press the red ejector-seat button. Almost no supports needed.
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James Bond Aston Martin DB5 Gear Shift Knob with Ejector-Seat Button (Thrustmaster TH8S)
Custom shifter knob for the Thrustmaster TH8S
Every Bond fan knows the moment: the gear knob lifts, and underneath sits the little red button. This knob brings that moment to your sim rig.
On top sits a hinged, domed lid with the engraved 5-speed + reverse shift pattern. Flip it open and the red ejector-seat button is waiting for you.
Highlights
Authentic DB5 look: tulip-shaped body, domed lid, engraved shift pattern
Separate red button part: 1.2 mm stroke, and it stands 3 mm above the lid’s parting line
Fully functional: the lid opens up to 100°, and the button can be pressed
Secure button lock: a 90° bayonet holds the button, so it cannot pop off while you shift
Easy to print: almost no supports needed, no special settings, and no infill required
Easy to assemble: three printed parts, one piece of filament, and a few minutes
Optional upgrades: a pen spring for a real push-button feel, two tiny magnets so the lid snaps shut and a metal pin with a diameter of approximately 1.75 mm and a length of 17 mm to hold the lid (works also with a piece of filament)
Parts overview
Part | Notes | |
|---|---|---|
Printed | 1 × Corpus | includes the official Design Piece thread |
Printed | 1 × Lid | domed, with engraved shift pattern |
Printed | 1 × Red button | print it in red, or paint it |
Required | Hinge pin (choose one): 17 mm piece of 1.75 mm filament, or a Ø 1.75 × 17 mm metal pin, or 40–50 mm of thin filament/wire (max. 1.2 mm), tied | hinge pin – an old leftover piece of filament works perfectly |
Optional | 1 × pen (ballpoint) spring | makes the button spring-loaded |
Optional | 2 × disc magnets Ø4 × 1.5 mm | lid latch; without it, the lid simply sits loosely on the body |
Helpful | Super glue, side cutters, tweezers, scrap of paper |
Printing
Material: almost any filament works. PLA and PETG are recommended.
Supports: almost none are needed.
Infill: not required; any setting is fine.
Colors: print it multicolor (for example a red button with a black body for the most realistic James Bond look), or print it in one color and paint it afterward.
Thread: the thread comes straight from the Design Piece (https://www.printables.com/model/1825116-thrustmaster-official-th8s-gear-knob-files), so it should fit without tolerance tweaking.
Assembly

Step 1 – Lid and hinge (required)
The hinge channel has a larger opening on the right and a small opening on the left. A pin pushed in from the right stops at the small left opening, and thin filament can be threaded through both openings. Fix the lid with either a pin or thin filament.
Place the lid. Push it into the pocket. A slight snap is normal.
Line up the holes. Wiggle the lid until the hole in the knuckle lines up with the channel in the body.
Fix the hinge, choose one:
Option 1, pin: push a metal pin with a diameter of approximately 1.75 mm and a length of 17 mm in through the larger right opening until it stops at the small left one. No metal rod? An old leftover piece of 1.75 mm filament, cut to 17 mm, works just as well. A drop of glue keeps it in place.
Option 2, tied filament: take a thin, flexible filament or wire (max. 1.2 mm) of about 40–50 mm. Thread it in on the right, through the knuckle, and out through the small left opening, then tie the two ends together.
Test. Swing the lid from 0° to 100°. It must move freely. Do not glue the pin to the lid knuckle.
Step 2 – Red button (with or without spring)
With spring (recommended):
Cut a pen spring to about 5.5–6 mm.
Slide it over the post in the button well.
Without spring: skip the two steps above.
Then, for both versions:
Place the button on top, spring chamber facing down. Turn it until both keyways drop over the lugs.
Push the button all the way down and hold it.
Turn it 90° clockwise (seen from above) until it stops.
Release. With a spring the button springs up and clicks into place. Without one it rests on the well floor, about 1.5 mm lower, and is a little loose.
Removal: press the button in, turn it counter-clockwise to the stop, and release slowly while keeping a finger on it. For a permanent assembly, add a drop of super glue in the detent notch.
Step 3 – Magnets (optional)
Do this last, with the lid already on its hinge.
Glue magnet 1 into the pocket on the top of the body, with any pole facing up.
Place a thin strip of paper on top and place Magnet 2 on top of that. The polarity will then be correct automatically.
Put a tiny drop of glue on the ceiling of the lid pocket and close the lid onto magnet 2. Hold it until the glue sets.
Open the lid and remove the paper. The lid now snaps shut.
Skip this step if you don’t have magnets. The lid will still work; it just won’t snap into place.
Step 4 – Check and mount
Check that the lid swings freely and the button moves, then screw the knob onto your TH8S shifter shaft.
Troubleshooting
Problem | Solution |
|---|---|
Lid is stiff | Clean the pin channel with a 1.9 mm drill bit by hand, sand the pin slightly, and keep glue off the knuckle |
Lid doesn’t latch | The magnets repel each other. Rebuild with the paper trick or leave them out |
Button won’t go in | Turn it until the keyways drop over the lugs, then press and turn 90° clockwise |
Button hard or rattling | The spring is too long or too short. Cut a new one to about 5.5–6 mm. |
Button sits low | No spring is fitted, so it rests 1.5 mm lower |
Specifications
Height 59 mm, maximum diameter 38 mm
Thread: official Thrustmaster Design Piece, unchanged
Lid opening angle: 100°
Button stroke: 1.2 mm
Magnet pockets: Ø4.1 × 1.6 mm