1 / 1
Ender 3(pro/v2) purge bucket — zdjęcie 1

Ender 3(pro/v2) purge bucket

Zamów wydruk tego modelu

Obliczymy ostateczną cenę na podstawie wybranego pliku. Sprawdzisz ją i zaakceptujesz przed płatnością.

Zapisane na tym urządzeniu.

Purge bucket for Ender 3 series. Designed to mount on bed. Designed to also fit my E3D Chimera but will work without.

Ocena
5 / 5
Polubienia
74
Pobrania
193
Wydruki
1
Wyświetlenia
3525
Oceny
1

Aktualizacja u źródła:

Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution

This is a purge bucket designed to fit on the front right bed bolt on an ender 3 or variants. This allows for minimal wastes, nozzle cleaning, and priming of nozzles for dual extrusion. The hotend purges into the bucket which then drops below. It is recommended to have some sort of container below to catch the purge. I used an ender 3 drawer.

 

This is the culmination of months of rigourus testing.

This part mounts to the front of the bed on and Ender 3 3D Printer (tested on an Ender 3 Pro) via the bed screw mounts.

Components needed

Silicon pastry brush (I sourced mine from Woolworths Australia) 

M4 nuts * 1 (optional 4)

OPTIONAL 3 fibre washers 

3D printed Ender 3(pro/v2) tool tray Part/container

A note on brass brushes:

Many other purge bucket/nozzle wiper designs utilise a brass brush as opposed to a silicone pastry brush. From my testing, I decided to utilise a silicone brush. If you choose to go with a brass brush, be aware that they do not appear to be as durable. Also ensure that these will not damage your nozzle. Some ‘brass brushes’ are actually brass plated steel, so they may scratch and damage a brass nozzle. In addition to this, some coated nozzles, such as E3D's Nozzle X can be seriously damaged by any brass brush. Ensure that this will not damage your nozzle before use. 

If done right, a brass brush may provide better cleaning results. This part should support both a brass and a silicone brush.

Installation instructions

  1. Install a tool tray of your choice according to its instructions. Alternately, use a container.
  2. Remove the print surface from the bed. If this is glass this is easy, alternately, if this is a magnetic sticker you may need to consider cutting holes to access the bolts.
  3. Remove the bed knobs, and then the springs.
  4. Place the part on the front right bolt. It should sit flat against the bottom. Place a nut on the bolt, and tighten it so it is held captive in the hole on the model.
  5. OPTIONAL: You may want to consider placing some nuts (and fibre washers) on the other side of the bolt to hold it in place so it does not come loose over time.
  6. Tighten all the bolts back up.
  7. Place the bed and springs back on. Replace the bed knobs.
  8. Cut the top off the pastry brush. Aim for about 8mm of silicone. You may want to tidy it up later.

Gcode tuning

Attached below is a link to my tool change script compatible with PrusaSlicer, and SuperSlicer. You will need to tune all of the values to suit your specific machine. You should place the GCode in a file and test run it. Be aware it could fail spectacularly, so keep your finger on the power switch.

Scripts: https://github.com/LordBBQ/misc/tree/main/code 

 

Hardware tuning You will have to move your endstops slightly, in my case just a bolt used for sensorless homing.

 

Print settings:

This model should be printed in ABS (or other heat resistant material at your own risk!) else it will warp. Supports are not required. 

 

DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE THIS MAY CAUSE. THIS MODEL IS SUPPLIED 'AS IS' AND WITH NO WARRANTY WHATSOEVER. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!

Tagi