Mean Well LRS-350 Unhinged MK3+3030+2020+LACK

Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3450424

After deciding to stop bolting inlets to angles and leaving my wires all exposed i found a lack of interoperability and options for proper housings for my LRS-350s. So i figured fastteddy made a nice modular enclosure and posted sauce, I'll just add some more mount points, it'll be EASY! A week and nearly 300 meters of filament in failed attempts later, I'm finally ready to give up and post it. I just pulled random ones from ali express or somewhere out of a box but according to specs it should work with https://www.amazon.com/Willwin-AC250V-IEC320-Terminals-Socket/dp/B078RLN3DQ/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=iec+power+inlet&qid=1614634108&sr=8-20

Features

• Increased size and support of main mounting foot to allow for scribbling constellations of stars.
• Added small guidance shelf for bottom of psu.
• Added 3mm holes to footing inline w/ included oldbear 5mm hole, and inline w/ mk3 extrusion x2 for anyone using those ridiculous 3mm extrusion nuts prusa ships.
• Added 6mm hole to footing at the perpendicular intersection of standard haribo3030 and mk3 mount point.
• Added 5mm mount point for bear2.1.
• Added bottom knockout puck for clearance over back MK3 frame on fake prusas.
• Removed ziptie mounts because in the way.
• Added rear inlet hole for wires.
• Removed bottom vents to make room for 6mm slot inline w/ 3030 extrusion and addition slot for 2020/3030 fringe builds that u can shove even MORE wires through(recommend using washers if you use these to make ur triangle of bolts).
• Created clearance for most 3030/2020 angles brackets and modified faceplate to match, leaving a slot so you can still use the original faceplate probably. Though you would probably want an extra hole to get both screws in.
• Modified FRIO's mk3 adapter bracket from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3329838.
• Curved side vent feature to allow for screws too long for new design to barely clear through FRIO's bracket.
• Couldn't find bracket for 3030 case since someone keeps deleting, so made my own w/ a fantastic sd card effect on the side using fastteddys profile as a guide for easymode.
• Decided to shove a hole in the back to add rear inlet after printing most of my original modifications already.....
• Decided I didn't want to rescrew into wood each time I converted over to a LACK enclosure, so designed a series of puck-like fittings to work w/ m4 wood screws, #8 wood screws, and if you're careful w/ the threading into plastic #8 drywall screws and then bolt into place with your choice of stars from the constellation puck and a m3x? screw on the minipuck. Of course. you could just bolt straight in or use other fittings, but i wanted one that slid in.
• Figured some people may not want rear inlet, so made a little bear insert to boop into it. Further attempts at refining the boopit bear were unfruitful.

` =

Included all source so u can make whatever holes u need in the faceplate or edit the mangled mess i made of fastteddys clean files for w/e reason, a hacked up untested version w/ no rear inlet, and modified 2020 mounts for T-slot.

Sketch from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4283753 should also be on the faceplate, but if your going to use that style of outlet note theyre designed for very specific wall thickness and i have 3 all with totally different depths, so make sure you double check the fit.

Printed with prusaslicer .2mm quality setting at 15% infill w/ petg. Upping walls and infill on pucks and hangers may be a good idea, but I didnt bother. Paint on support for rear inlet makes it cleaner, but deburring tool on overhang works fine too. Naturally for orientation, place w/ the designer's tears falling downwards and 45 degree angles doing battle with gravity.

Category: 3D Printer Accessories