Laptop Cooler for 15 inch Laptops

Laptop cooler that reduces laptop fan noise and decreases temperatures.

To the print itself:
Material:                 Any PLA (I used Extrudr PLA NX2)
Temperature:         205 °C (Prusa Slicer preset for said filament)
Layer height:         0.3 mm
The print worked for me entirely without supports as long as you print it on the flat side.
It has little indents for rubber feet at the top to prevent your laptop from sliding off.
I used felt pads underneath the feet.

The electrical components i used are quite simple really.
(i get no comission from the listed links. You can get other parts if you like)

• 12V 2A power brick. https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07KZLH9ZP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (kind of overkill)
• A fitting barrel connector (comes with this particular brick^)
• 3x 120mm Arctic P12. https://www.amazon.de/Arctic-schwarz-Value-120mm-Geh%C3%A4usel%C3%BCfter/dp/B07KK4GDLN/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=2G2G51CE8PIZD&keywords=arctic+p12&qid=1666124564&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjE1IiwicXNhIjoiMy44MiIsInFzcCI6IjMuNTQifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=artic+p12%2Caps%2C98&sr=8-5
• PWM speed controller. https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07ZPRM23X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   

Building: In order to build the thing you have to screw the 2 halfs together with 2x M3x25 screws (longer is also fine) and 2x M3 nuts. There are 2 through holes on the front middle and the rear middle foot.
Next you can screw in the fans into the main plane with the screws that are provided with the fans. Screwing in the fans will also add the additional rigidity to the frame.
The Barrel connector and the PWM controller both have printed compartments for them.
You can glue them in with hotglue for example. Just keep in mind that in order to reattach cables you would have to have access to the screw ports in the parts which they need to be removed for if you ever want to service it. 
I decided to just keep them in there somewhat loose for that reason.

So for cabling i used some Dupont wires i had from another arduino project. They are just the standard ones from any arduino beginners set. Quick, cheap and easy.
All you really gotta do is feed power into the PWM controller and then cable the PWM controller to the first fan. The arctic P12 PWM have a splitter that allows you to chain them together. So you just connect the first fans splitter with the main connector of the second fan and the second fans splitter with the third fans main connector. I wrapped up the excess cable in between and around the fans to keep it atleast a little bit tidier.

So now the big question is it worth it to build this laptop cooler?
Answer is as always: It depends…
If your laptop has a mesh where air can pass through close to the rear then yes.
If you happen to have the Laptops cooling solution located close to the mousepad then you shouldnt use this.
So lets talk numbers.
Ive managed to drop my Laptops temperature in a heavy All-Core workload for the CPU from 88°C to 81°C degrees and the GPU from 76°C to 64°C. All while reducing the high pitched whine from the Laptop fans. The Laptop is using a Ryzen 5600H and a RTX 3070(120W)
Its a Lenovo Legion 5. 

I would say the overall noise has also decreased but only marginally. It is however traded for a lower pitched hum from the Artics which in my opinion is much more bearable. You can also go crazy and put some seriously pricey fans in there like Noctuas but at that point i start to doubt the value preposition because the whole project then ramps from somewhere around 40-50€ to something closer to 100€. To me the arctics do a good enough job.