Y axis Bed Cable Chain for Lulzbot Taz Printers
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This is a set of end mount blocks for an Igus 10 x 15mm cable chain with end mounts.
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This is a set of end mount blocks for an Igus 10 x 15mm cable chain with end mounts. These will fit a stock Taz 1-5 with no modification.You will need 6 M3 heat set inserts
( http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3267/=zw8u0v) , 6 M3 bolts, one M5 bolt and T-slot Nut (drop in nuts work well here) and a zip tie.
I specifically used these cable chains: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261848758125?\_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Edit 1:
Shorter variant of the bed attachment point files uploaded. This version will clear left side mounted fan ducts when printing at the extreme upper left of the bed properly.
Print instructions
Category: 3D Printer Parts Summary
This is a set of end mount blocks for an Igus 10 x 15mm cable chain with end mounts. These will fit a stock Taz 1-5 with no modification.You will need 6 M3 heat set inserts
( http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3267/=zw8u0v) , 6 M3 bolts, one M5 bolt and T-slot Nut (drop in nuts work well here) and a zip tie.
I specifically used these cable chains: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261848758125?\_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Edit 1:
Shorter variant of the bed attachment point files uploaded. This version will clear left side mounted fan ducts when printing at the extreme upper left of the bed properly.
Print Settings
Printer Brand: LulzBot
Printer: TAZ 5
Rafts: No
Supports: No
Resolution: 0.5mm nozzle
Infill: 85% or better
Notes:
I used ABS, PLA should also work here, but you may want ABS for the sections close to the bed.
Instructions
Print all three pieces. Install heat set inserts in the two smaller holes on the frame block, and in all 4 holes of the bed block. The bed block is designed to fit into the Zip tie slot on the stock bed plate. The Bed latch then screws down to hold that in place. The zip tie holds the bed end cable ends in place. You will need to disconnect the control box ends of the heated bed power cable and temperature sensor to be able to route the cable. I left a section of the existing stock cable jacket tube in place at the frame end for cleaner looking routing, you will want an inch or two to protrude into the cable chain at a least, and you could optionally leave the whole thing on if you like.