eSun eBox Lite Noctua Mod

Before we start: Please make sure your printer is dimensional accurate, see measurements image and verify it's the same with you.

So this mod, why?

If you are like me and you hate the loud high pitch/whine noise coming from your eSun eBox Lite filament dryer then you are in luck! I have modified my dryer so it works with a much more silent Noctua 12v NF-A4x10 FLX fan (but any 40x40x10 / 4010 fan will do!).

EDIT: Today I've read Noctua now also makes a 24v version; https://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x10-24v-pwm Even more simple!
 

This modification does not need you to cut or change your eBox Lite and can be done without screws (although you can optionally cut some isolation foam to get a few mm more room). The fan shroud will slide over the existing fan mount and will be held in place by this mount and the case (it's a snug fit).

Note: You can use a Noctua fan, but this requires you to use a 24v to 12v DC-DC buck converter (step-down) since the Noctua is 12v and the default fan is 24v. Or you can find yourself a 24v 40x40x10 fan and use that directly without a converter. (As for heat, my stepdown converter was rated to 85+C so should be fine). Obviously using a 24v to 12v converter might need you to do some soldering (or use a version with connectors and use some 3M Skotchlok connectors instead). But in all cases you can keep your original parts and always go back to stock.

The fan shroud has two holes for a tie wrap for the 24v→12v converter board, I also included a version with no holes.

Instructions might seem like a lot but it's really simple actually..

How-to:
(see image)

- First remove the 2 screws on the inside (those also hold on to the bottom piece). See pic 1.

- Remove the 4 rubber feet and remove the 4 screws, see pic 2. The bottom piece should come (fall) out now with no problem. You can set this piece next to the dryer (no need to disconnect).

- Remove the old fan (slides right out) and carefully disconnect this one from the front panel (you can slide the front panel/board out for better access, perhaps use a tiny screwdriver to ‘release the notch’ of the fan connector).

- Re-use the same wires from the old fan or use new ones (with the correct plug) for powering the new fan. Either connect this directly to a 24v fan or, if you plan on using the Noctua, get yourself a 24v→12v stepdown converter and use this as the input (24v). I used the included Noctua ‘OmniJoin’ cable on the output (12v), which is just two wires and the correct plug for the Noctua. I used a small tie wrap to secure the board to the shroud. See pic 3.

- Now I had to modify my Noctua fan a tiny bit to make it fit the fan mount, so I took off some material at the sides. See pic 5. Your mileage may vary based on the fan you have. So make sure it slides in before putting the shroud over it.

- After connecting it all, make sure you place the wires in such a way they don't pinch when closing it all up. See pic 4.

- OPTIONAL: to make your life a bit easier when putting it all back together, remove some foam from the bottom near the power connector. You can easily cut and remove the foam while keeping the silver piece and stick that back again. Use the fan shroud as a rough guide for the size. See pic 6.

- Now you can close it all up again! Make sure the wires are not pinched and carefully put the bottom back in place. With me it all fitted perfectly like nothing happened. Put the bottom screws back in. And then put the two screws back on the inside (press down on the metal plate a bit when putting in the screws here).

Enjoy your more silent dryer!

Performance

Now you might be wondering if there is a big difference between the stock configuration and the modified dryer. As far as I have been able to measure: no. The temperatures inside are as good as the same with me (e.g. level 2 for PETG, 52C on top inside). Since the unit uses a sensor under the metal plate (and heating element) to measure the temperature the fan does not make a big difference to how this works. And the air still gets nicely moved around as it should.

Printing

Print using PETG (or other higher temperature material), since it's all walls infill does not really matter. No special instructions..

I printed mine on the back with some supports, this worked fine (see photo of slicer). I also printed a test version just ‘normal upright’ with some support enforcers under the top, that also worked fine (see other slicer photo). Maybe there is an option without supports? I was not brave enough to try ;-). Both with snug style supports.