Motorised Mount for Hadley Telescope

***PLEASE NOTE MAIN VERSIONS OF MODELS AND CODE EXIST ON GITHUB ALONG WITH THE CODE AND WILL DO SO UNTIL PRINTABLES SUPPORTS PULL REQUESTS***

***THIS IS PROBABLY CONTAINS ERRORS AND MISTAKES - PLEASE CREATE A PULL REQUEST IN GITHUB TO FIX ANY YOU FIND OR LET ME KNOW AND I WILL UPDATE***

Video of it in motion: https://photos.app.goo.gl/WRvGsyqdSLUX7sEB9 

Full details, latest code/models:

https://github.com/drsp123/esp8266_Hadley_Motorised/ 

Welcome to my update to the metric hadley to add motorised control.  Please note that as the code (initially VERY basic) evolves it will live on GitHub where folk who are way smarter and talented than me hopefully will make it better.  Similarly the models will exist on GitHub so that folk can improve and merge change their improvements to a single place so that there is a hopefully single best version (hopefully) and not many forks.

Once build, this will allow you to control your telescope from a webpage.   In due course the intent is to improve the code so that you can select targets and the telescope automatically moves to point at it, and will track it's position over time.  This requires a few more updates, and some coding to make work, but it's very possible.

With this, I recommend replacing the all plastic bearings with ‘proper’ bearings, this gives much smoother movement.  While it will work without this, the movement can be slightly jerky which would be a problem for small/slow movements when tracking objects in the sky.  

Anyway - firstly - the readme on github is the latest doc - pls see that for more details and code etc.

For hardware that needs to be purchased, you will need:

• ESP8266 Microcontroller (I used a D1 mini clone) - something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08BTH77F3 (you can use an ESP32, but i think would need to change some of the libraries used)
• Lazy Susan Bearing - I used this one (140mm), and all the holes etc. are based this - I have no idea how standard they are - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00TQT9U7U/ 
• A4988 stepper motor drivers (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MXXL2KW/) note - you can use the standard ULN2003 drivers, you will just need to make a couple of code tweaks and will get less torque.  The changes are commented out in the source code.  NB - I got HR4988 chips, not A4988 - these seem to work fine and I think are just cheap chinese rip offs of the real thing, so I wouldn't expect huge longevity, but so far they seem to work.
• 2 x 28BYJ-48 5V stepper motors ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07PPKS7GZ/ ) - I had some lying around I think I got from aliexpress for about $1 each, they seem pretty universal though. Just get the 5V version
• An electrolytic capacitor (at least 100uF and >12V).  I think mine is 1000uF, but that's too big, it's just one I had a drawer full of
• 5V → 12V boost converter (10V would prob be OK too).  I used this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08M42BT3G/ but anything that can 0.4 A at 12V should be plenty (I measure about 95mA per motor, I have no idea how much the stepper controllers use, but they get hot..so some..) so I would estimate a total of 400mA capacity should give plenty of headroom
• 2 x 6700 bearings (2RS, ZZ - doesn't matter)
• Some solder, basic soldering skills
• A computer to flash the ESP8266 (i.e to load the computer program onto the ESP8266 microcontroller)
• USB battery pack and micro-USB wire for power
• 6mm wide closed loop GT2 timing belt - I used a 500mm one, but I think a 400mm would be OK
• 8mm M4 screws x4 (I think)
• 4 x M4 nuts
• 12mm M4 screws x16 (I think - You can get away with 8mm screws for these if needed - 8 of these hold the modified bearings (large semicircular ish things) in place - I ran out and used 8mm screws here - they are OK but 12mm better)
• 8mm M3 screws x6 (to secure the motors and bearings)
• 6mm M3 Heat set inserts x6
• 6mm M4 Heat set inserts x 12 (could use 8 here - 8 of these these connect the metric frame to the rotating base, I used 4 due to me being tighter than 2 layers of paint, there are holes for 8).  The other 4 are for the below screws.
• 16mm M4 x4 (these go through the lazy susan from the bottom into heat set inserts to hold the rotation base (the thing that deliberately looks a bit like a ship's helm) to the bearing)
• 10mm M4 Heat set inserts (could use a different size) x4.  These are to hold the bearing and ring gear to the optional base.
• Countersunk 20mm M4 screws - these connect the lazy susan to the optional base

PLEASE NOTE - THE UI/control webpage looks AWFUL, I will improve this in time, however if any talented (well, to be fair one wouldn't need to be talented to improve on my effort) front end dev would like to improve the monstrosity I have hacked together - please feel free and create a PR!