Thin Rip Jig for Tablesaw

Table saws are dangerous. Print and use at your own risk. 

Designed to require very little additional hardware. 

The tolerances between sliding interfaces is about 0.2 mm. You may have issues with binding if your printer is not dialed in, so take it as a challenge!

Hardware:

• M5 x 20 mm countersunk screw (x1) & nut (x1)
  
• M3 x 10 mm countersunk screws (x2)
  
• 608-2RS bearing (standard skateboard bearing). If you do not have a bearing you can print the plastic bushing which will serve the same purpose but not be as good.
  

Read Before Printing:

Measure the gap from your table saw's mitre slot to blade tooth kerf (inside edge to inside edge). If the gap is less than about 5" (125mm), use the regular Slider.stl file. If the gap is more than 5" (125mm), use the Slider_Longboy.stl file.

Measure the width of your mitre slot. This is designed to work with standard mitre slots that are about ¾" (19mm) wide. If you have one of those non-standard ½" mitre slots you are SOL (or feel free to remix the model).

Assembly: 

Stop the slipping bolt: 

If the M5 bolt slips, and it probably will, the fix is simple. Take a pair of side cutters and pinch a couple of sharp cuts into the head of the bolt. It takes a lot of force so squeeze hard. This little bit of friction is all that is needed to keep the bolt from slipping!

Operation:

Support: If you REALLY like this model and want to buy me a beer, you can find me here. Whether it’s feedback or just a nod of appreciation, I’m always happy to hear from people. But let’s be real - the most effective form of communication is cold, hard cash (or beer).