RatRig V-Minion Z-Endstop Klicky EVA3

Hi,

I've designed Klicky Z-Endstop for RatRig V-Minion with EVA3.

Because of it's construction is really hard to get ‘space’ for that solution.

But after few ‘little’ modifications You will be able to do it!

First steps:

1. Move X engine ‘holder’ far to left to get more space. It will require loosening the belt of X axis. You need extra ~-5 to 6mm in X axis. Make sure to set in klipper position_min to -X value (X - in mm new negative value)  
2. You will probably need to cut corner of front panel of EVA3, like in the picture below. W/O that carriage will hit X-plate - and You will be not able to move carriage closer to Z extrusion. 45 angle cut. OR print new front panel modified by me.
3. 

Now You should be able to move the nozzle out of bed.

Klicky Z-Endstop switch BOM:

1. 1x   Body Fab1.STL - ABS is highly recommended
2. 1x   D2F-5L switch - remove metal lever  (https://www.tme.eu/pl/details/d2f-5l/mikroprzelaczniki-snap-action/omron-ocb/d2f5l/)
3. 1x   fi 5mm, 22mm long, metal pin (You can cut old 5mm drill)
4. 1x   5x8x10mm bushing (https://www.sklep.neronpila.pl/Tuleja-tulejka-z-brazu-5x8x10-AMES-p48252)
5. 2x   M2x10mm self taping screws
6. 2x   M3x12mm screws
7. 2x   T-Nut M3/3030
8. 1x 3-Pin JST 2.54 socket
9. thin wire

Assembling:

1. Solder 2 wires - 1 to NC, 1 to C
2. Bend switch pins at 45 angle. To avoid short circuit - switch is really close to the printers frame.
3. Insert switch to in place and tighten the M2 screws. 
4. Insert JST socket in place and solder 2 wires to it.
5. Push bushing in place 
6. insert metal pin in place.
7. insert M3 screws + t-nuts and pre tighten it on extrusion

That's it.

You will probably have to move z-endstop on extrusion to find perfect spot. 

My pin is in ~0.5mm distance from heatbed.

now make proper adjustmets in klipper and perform first z-homming. Make sure that You nozzle is always clean. Calibrate z-offset.

this is how it works:

Enjoy

If You want, buy me a coffee :)

ko-fi.com/marcinmiszewski