FLSUN V400 PrusaSlicer Profile (Rev 0.21 alpha)

This is a remake of a FLSUN V400 profile for use on PrusaSlicer. 
 

The graphics for the plate is from the @CODASYSGmbH_831285 version that was for the SR but I prefer it to others since it has the squared plate that helps in PrusaSlicer. All the GCODE sections have been enhanced and the printing parameters have been completely fine tuned to have the best compromise between quality and speed. In addition there are some example of materials, that should be carefully tuned just for FLSUN V400 use ans should not be used with other printers, so in order to avoid misuse with other printers (e.g. MK3) they contains the @FLSUN in the name. You will need to save and set the graphic files manually in PrusaSlicer.
The Printer Profile is for 0.4 mm Nozzle only.

At the moment there are only two profiles:

0.28mm SPEED @FLSUN - PLA
0.28mm SPEED @FLSUN - PETG

The enhanced GCODE allow to start to keep the printer without any filament and just start the print from SpeederPad/Web interface. 

 

HOW TO PRINT

Slice the object and send to the printer via web interface or copying in in the usb key.

1. Mount the filament spool
2. Insert the filament in the filament sensor (important)
3. START THE PRINT
4. The printer will do all the preheat work
5. Once the required temperature is reached the extruder will be parked outside
6. A message on the SpeederPad will appear asking to “Load the filament…”
7. The print will be paused
8. Insert the filament in the nozzle bowden tube
9. Select Action/Extruder/Load Filament from the SpeederPad to load the filament and extrude some material.
10. Go back to the Main menu.
11. Clean any leaking filament from the nozzle.
12. Tap on RESUME PRINT
13. The printer will start to print

I spent much time to try to print PETG at high speed. PETG officially have a max print speed of 80 mm/s, so printing it faster was a challenge. FLSUN has a very good extruder motor so powerful that is capable to extrude the PETG also in semi-cristalline state, that of course cause the layers simply delaminate immediately.
 

The problem is that at fast speed the PETG (but even the PLA) does not stay in the nozzle enough time to melt completely, so the only way to print well is to leave the filament inside the hot nozzle more time, and this is done only by slowing down the speed, or by replacing the stock nozzle with something that is capable to support a flow rate of 32 mm/s. 

But after several experimentation I discover a new way to melt better the filament without replacing the stock nozzle or slowing down the print.

I discover that raising the nozzle temp well over the filament manufacturer value, make it so hot that even the shortest time that the high speed leave the filament in the nozzle is enough to melt the filament and allow a flow rate between 17 and 22 mm/s (that is very high!).

Those temperature values are experimental and should be found material by material, since having it to high could burn the filament in the nozzle and clog it, or if too low do not allow the correct flow rate and extrude semi-solid filament that delaminates.

For this reason I put 3 samples of filament settings (Prusament PETG, Erione PLA, QIDI TECH Hi-Speed PETG). QIDI Tech is a PETG designed to be printed at high speed and so at high temperature.

There is still to work on the fine tuning of some parameters, like bridges to find the optimal values, but once I will have tuned all I will release the updates.

I had to compared the time with the standard MK3 as reference since I did not had any way to compare with a BambuLab X1C.  I was able to get big prints in 2h:45 that were 6h:30 in MK3 mode. So I am satisfied of the results.