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Sovol SV06/SV06+ Plus Z-Bear Motor Mounts — zdjęcie 1
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Sovol SV06/SV06+ Plus Z-Bear Motor Mounts

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Improved Sovol SV06/SV06+ Z Motor Mounts to give more squareness/rigidity/"bear" mount that holds Y and Z together.

Ocena
4,923 / 5
Polubienia
91
Pobrania
410
Wydruki
11
Wyświetlenia
2737
Oceny
13

Aktualizacja u źródła:

Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike

Introduction

Hello all, as many SV06/SV06+ users, my Z-axis needed quite a bit of work as the bars weren’t parallel to the extrusions, tried some solutions that worked fine, but I gave a take combining two ideas and give a real sturdy mount and also, providing some kind of support along the Y-axis as well. So I remixed a couple of models and joined them together. Result is a printer that don’t exhibit any kind of flaws on Z anymore and which the bars are 100% parallel to the extrusions.

DISCLAIMER: This is the first public release, maybe some filling/adjustment is needed at the holes that accommodate the motor (the biggest hole) and also the one that holds the bar, in my case, I preferred to do the fine tuning manually with a file and finish with a really tight fit, in case you need serious adjustments, please share in the comments and I’ll do my best since the original remix is in STL. If you have some Onshape or Tinkercad knowledge, you can also work it out.

Also, I’d like to have your feedback so I can improve it with your needs or any flaws that you could find. Needed hardware and assembly/print instructions are just below.

Thanks and happy printing!

ChangeLog

  • v1 (bis) - 22nd October 2023 - First version for the SV06+ (bar hole is reinforced due to the losed perimeter)
  • v1 - 13th October 2023 - First version for the SV06

Needed Hardware

  • Heat inserts: M4 x 8.1 x 6.3 (8 units) - make sure the knurls face opposite directions to get a good grip
    • You can always extract the old ones but I don’t recommend it, do not mess with original pieces unless are broken since they can be handy if your current one fails.
  • Soldering iron (really useful if you purchase the ruthex heads to get a clean insertion)
  • Screws: 4xM4 10mm counterbore
  • T-Nuts: 4xM4
  • For the stepper motors you can reuse the same nuts

Assembly Instructions

  • Optional but really important: When you remove the original motor mounts you can make sure that your Z-towers are perfectly square with the Y-frame. Please adjust them without any load (it is preferred that you remove even the top part and the X-carriage) so you can ensure a perfect straight angle from the beginning without anything else interfering..
  • Place your heat inserts on the holes that have a protrusion as the original parts.
  • Ensure that the hole for your bar and the top of the motor fit, fine tune or adjust whatever is necessary to certify that the bar fits snugly and in a perfect 90º angle.
    • It really comes in handy to have the bars totally unattached so you can really adjust each motor mount to its corresponding bar. In my case, I had to adjust more the left one than the right, tolerances may vary in your case as well.
  • Pre-install the M4 screws and T-nuts to fit in the Y frame.
  • Install the stepper motor and place the bar
  • Slide-in and make sure they’re flat and sitting correctly on the Z-extrusions
  • Tighten everything while using a machinist square to make sure that is still flush and leveled
  • Repeat same process in the other side.
  • You’re done, enjoy!

Printing Instructions

  • Use a sturdy material that can hold shape under stress and heat, in my case I opted for Greentec Pro CarbonFiber.
  • Used 5 walls and 40-50% gyroid infill, wanted a really sturdy piece
  • Print at 0.2mm layer height with 0.4mm or 0.5mm nozzle (it will be more accurate on a 0.4m but I did 0.5mm, maybe it will require extra tuning as in my case)
  • Rotate the pieces 90º so the longest flat piece touches the base.. No supports are needed

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