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Left/Right Door Frame for MK3 Prusabox — zdjęcie 1
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Left/Right Door Frame for MK3 Prusabox

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Redesign of the original left/right door frame for the MK4 Prusabox to fit the MK3 Prusabox and its Plexiglass sheets.

Ocena
5 / 5
Polubienia
7
Pobrania
40
Wydruki
4
Wyświetlenia
250
Oceny
2

Aktualizacja u źródła:

Informacje o modelu

Źródło
Printables
Kategoria
Accessories
Licencja
Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — NoDerivatives
1. Introduction

As an owner of an MK3 Prusabox, I think that the new design of the MK4 left/right doors is a very good design and upgrade compared to the previous system of locking. It gives a more robust way to close the door and also increases the stiffness of the doors.

But….the printed parts provided Printer-Box are only compatible with MK4 Prusabox due to the new specific dimensions.

In this regard, the present model is a remix of those parts, which I designed to fit the Prusabox MK3 left and right doors and add some functional improvements.

!!!TESTS IN PROGRESS!!!

2. Revision History
VersionDescriptionDate
X.1
  • Beta Version
08/11/2023
A.1
  • Initial Release
21/11/2023
A.2
  • Different adjustements of dimensions
  • Remove a potential screw interference
  • Add magnets for better sealing
03/02/2024

 

3. Printing Instructions
  1. All elements
    • PETG
    • Layer Height: 0,2
    • Min 2 perimeters
    • No support (check parts orientation in 3mf files)
    • Min 20% infill
    • Infill Pattern: Gyroid

 

4. Materials for Assembly (BOM)

  • The printed parts
  • A bit of superglue (cyanoacrylate)
  • 11 M3x12 screws for each door
  • 1 M3x6 screw for each door
  • 12 M3 square nuts for each door
  • 10 neodymium magnets 8x3 mm for each door

 

5. Tools for Assembly

  • Drill
  • Recommended: a soldering iron with fine tip

 

6. Manufacturing and Assembly Instructions
  1. Insert all M3 square nuts in the parts.
  2. If you desire to hide/close the big holes of MK3 plexi, assemble the “dovetailed extension” parts onto the 3 thin middle segments. (L2T, L2B, L7 or R2T, R2B, R7).
  3. Assemble all parts without screws using the tabs. Pay attention to the order of parts according to the below picture for the left door. The same order is applicable to the right door with IDs starting by R (R1, R2,..) instead of L (L1, L2, …).
  4. Once assembled, place the plexi sheet on the frame (on the opposite side of the IDs).
  5. Arrange the parts to perfectly fit the plexi. Use the little guiding edges of corners for that. There are 2 possible cases:
    • In most cases, you will have to place all 4 corners against the plexi with the guiding edges. And then, just place the 4 middle segments ideally centered. If you have the dovetailed extension, be sure that the holes are closed.
    • Maybe your plexi is smaller than the guiding edges in the smaller possible assembly. Thus, just try to centralise the plexi by giving the same amount of play from the guiding edges in each corne. Be sure also that the holes are closed if you have the dovetailed parts.
  6. When you are sure of the position, we can start marking the holes position for the hinged corners (L1/R1 and L3/R3). You can either use a drill bit, a pen, etc. BUT I HIGHLY RECOMMEND to use a soldering iron to do a tiny hole by melting the plexi at the center of the holes position. Trust me, I did several trials and tests and the best way to ensure accuracy and avoid any cracks in the plexi was a pilot hole with the soldering iron.
  7. Drill with a 3 or 3,5 mm drill bit and then screw these 2 corners. with M3x12 screws.
  8. Arrange the middle segment L6/R6 and do the same procedure for it.
  9. One side is fixed ! Now, rearrange all parts and continue with the same procedure for the two last corners (L4/R4 and L5/R5). Just note the need of a M3x6 screw.
  10. Fix the middle segment L7: placement, soldering iron, drill ;)
  11. Do the same for L2T and L2B.
  12. Done ! The door should be rigid.
  13. If you use the dovetailed parts, you can also glue the “Hole Closers” if you want a flush finish for the door.
  14. Finally, don't forget to insert the magnets. 

Now you can use it on your Prusabox.

 

7. Notes
  • G-code file only made for MK3S+. The file contains some custom lines to add a pre-heating before the printing to avoid oozing during the mesh bed levelling. And a timer at the end of the print to buzz a sound once the parts has cooled down. 
  • Do not use the g-code file on other machines than MK3S+ ! In any case, I recommend you to slice the .stp files by yourself to make your own g-code files.

 

Have a nice print !

 

Last note! I've spent quite a lot of time designing, iterating and prototyping on all my models. Therefore, if you enjoy them, please don't forget to like+download and then rate them, so that I can earn so prusaments to continue ;)

Tagi