BTT PiTFT50 v2.1 Case with Raspberry Pi and 4010 Fan (Klipper Screen)

I needed a case to fit the BigTreeTech PiTFT50 v 2.1.  There are several cases out there for prior versions of the screen, but I couldn't find one to fit the latest version that I liked.  There are a couple of key differences in v2.1 versus prior versions, primarily the placement of the ribbon to connect the screen to the RPi that rendered cases for prior versions unusable.  

My primary use for the PiTFT50 v2.1 is as a screen for Klipper.  Thus my design is targeted for use with my 3d printers.  I wanted the screen to be tipped back from vertical, but didn't want it close to flat.  I also wanted to be able to fix the case in place on my printer cabinets, but also be able to unhook and move the screen without needing a bunch of tools or time.  

Parts will likely need to be re-oriented to print correctly.  I've included screen caps showing how I printed mine.  Supports are needed for the main case, but everything else should print fine without supports.  I designed these with an eye towards printing with a 0.6mm nozzle (e.g. wall thicknesses are multiples of 0.6) - most walls are either 1.8mm or 2.4mm thick.  I printed with ABS, but pretty much any of the normally used plastics should work well.  Consider printing the Snap-in Base Plate in PETG for a bit of additional flexibility and layer adhesion.  

You'll need the following hardware: 

1. BigTreeTech PiTFT50 v2.1 (earlier revisions may also work, but I have not tested this)
2. Raspberry Pi 4B (earlier revisions may also work, but I have not tested this)
3. 8x m2.5 heatset inserts (3.5mmx5mm)
4. 16x m2.5x8mm hex cap head screws - 8x are used to connect the case pieces together, 4x are used to attach the screen to the main case, and 4x are used to attach the RPi to the standoffs on the back of the screen.  
5. 4x m2.5x20 hex cap head screws, plus washers and nuts (used to attach the 4010 case fan)
6. 4x m2.5x10mm F/M standoffs (6mm or less length on the male threaded end)
7. 4010 5v case fan (plugged into the appropriate pins on the RPi). 
8. 6" right-angle low-profile usb c cable extension (or just a low-profile right angle USB C cable if you don't care about being able to easily unplug the RPi).  

Instructions: 

1. Print the parts (but see Step 11 below first). 
2. Install 4x heat set inserts into the 4 holes on the front of the case (the screen bezel will attach using these 4 inserts). 
3. Install 4x heat set inserts into the 4 holes in the square-ish blocks on the ends of the case back (not in the holes for the fan!).  
4. Connect the screen cable to the screen.  Be careful to orient the cable correctly.  
5. Attach the screen to the case using 4x m2.5x8mm hex cap head screws.  The cable should be pointed towards the back of the case.  There is a relief slot to give room for the cable (this, by the way, is the main reason that cases for prior versions of the screen wouldn't work for the v2.1).  The two holes at the top of the screen are easily accessible.  I've included access holes in the bottom of the case to more easily access the two mounting holes for the bottom of the screen.  
6. Attach the RPi to the back of the screen.  Use the 4x m2.5x10mm standoffs and 4x m2.5x8mm hex cap head screws.  Plug the screen cable into the RPi.  If you oriented the cable correctly in step 5, this should automatically be oriented correctly for the RPi.  (Note:  You can also install the RPi on the screen standoffs prior to placing the screen in the case if you so desire)  
7. Temporarily provide power to the RPi and make sure that the screen functions.  If you haven't already done so, you'll likely have to load your OS of choice (e.g. Mainsail or Fluidd) to make the screen function.  If the screen doesn't function, doublecheck your connections and do whatever other troubleshooting you need to do to get the screen functioning.  
8. Attach the fan to the back panel using 4x m2.5x20 hex cap head screws, plus washers and nuts.  Connect the fan to the appropriate RPi GPIO pins to test that it works (I used pins 4 and 6, but you should double check your RPi configuration to make sure you're using the correct pins with the correct polarity).  You'll need to provide power to the RPi to get the fan to turn on.
9. Assuming all tested well, plug in and rout the USB c power cable out the rectangular hole in the side of the case (next to the USB ports on the RPi).  Make sure the fan is plugged in on the appropriate pins on the RPi (with correct polarity) and attach the case back to the case using 4x m2.5x8mm hex cap head screws through the provided holes in the sides of the case into the heat set inserts that you placed in the square-ish blocks on the ends of the case back.  SEE EDIT BELOW. 
10. Attach the bezel to the front of the case using 4x m2.5x8mm hex cap head screws.  I took off the factory plastic screen protector on mine at this point (before attaching the bezel).  
11. Attach the Snap-in Base Plate wherever your Klipperscreen is going to live.  Alternatively, there are two provided 5mm holes in the bottom of the case that you can use to permanently attach the case to your intended location.  If you're using the snap in base plate, test and make sure that the plate securely holds the case, while letting you unclip the case somewhat easily.  Mine is stiff to unclip.  As you need a bit of flexibility for this part, consider printing in PETG.  I printed in ABS and it works, but is a bit of a pain and I'm not sure about the longevity of the part.  
12. Plug in the power and your printer, and you're done (or at least ready to finish your software config).  

Edit:  I had some troubles with my low profile USB C extension - evidently extensions (M/F) aren't compliant with the USB standard and there's some pretty poor quality control out there on them as a result.  I've added an updated version of the case back that allows direct access to the USB C power port on the RPi.  

WARNING:  If you use this model, you're going to be dealing with electricity.  You are responsible for your own safety.  You must be knowledgeable about what you're doing.  Sufficient knowledge will help you reduce your risk of bodily harm or death and damage to your property.  Use of this model means that you have assumed all risk associated.