Printable Snapmaker J1/J1s 40mm Riser

A completely printable 40 mm lid riser/top hat for the Snapmaker J1 or J1s. 

Inspired by edgett’s “Snapmaker J1/J1s Tophat” here on Printables which requires custom aluminum sides and Thomas Levendig's "Top Panel Riser - For Snapmaker J1". Mine is designed to be fully printed and fully encloses for those not needing that super-clean, aluminum look. The simplest version requires no additional hardware.

Two main purposes:

1. Relax the bending angle of the filament into the extruder from 90 degrees to ~135 degrees. Reduces friction and chance of filament binding.
2. Alleviate rubbing of guides on the aluminum lid (less noise).

The side walls are kept a minimum 12 mm thick, roughly matching the width of the top of the aluminum housing. The hope is that even if printed in PLA, it’s thick enough to withstand some warping.

Designed for printing with 0.25 mm layer height and 0.4 mm walls.

For a complete riser, you need:

• 2 “Corner A” pieces (with or without magnets)
• 2 “Corner B” pieces (with or without magnets)
• 4 “Side” pieces of your choice

The simplest version uses 2 of each A & B corner pieces without magnets, and 4 blank side pieces so no additional hardware is needed. Just print and slot together!

Settings used on Snapmaker J1s with PLA+:

• Layer height: 0.25 mm
• Line and nozzle width: 0.40 mm
• Top/Bottom layers: 3
• Wall thickness: 1.2 mm (3 lines)
• Infill: 20% Cubic
• Initial layer speed: 35 mm/s
• Outer wall speed: 75 mm/s
• Inner wall speed: 150 mm/s
• Infill speed: 175 mm/s
• Supports: (See notes.) Normal needed to fill pockets in corners and Tree may be needed for optional side panel. Snapmaker PLA breakaway material used.
• Brim: At least 8 mm. Corners in particular are prone to warp.

It was modeled right side up, but many parts should be printed face down. Please look carefully at orientation when importing to slicer.

With these settings, I was able to print this with about 510 g of PLA in ~12 hours total. Regarding orientation, supports and other details, please read notes below. 

The tolerances are comfortable overall, so dimensional accuracy shouldn't be a problem for fitment. It sits slightly loose when completed but can look quite nice and tidy.

Printing Side pieces:

Any of the 4 Side pieces are interchangeable. You need 4 total.

• Blanks are simple, solid walls. 
• 3 mm hole is optional for the back side. The intent is for allowing a USB cable (example, for a camera) to come in.
• Thermo Window is designed for a cheap, (46 mm x 26 mm) clip-in thermomemter/hygrometer to be snapped into the front side panel. 

For the last one, a hygrometer/thermometer with degC: [Amazon link broken! It is designed to fit a rectangular snap-in 1.75"W x 1"H digital hygro/thermo. The type commonly sold for humidors.]

Recommend printing all sides so layers are parallel to the top, to look nice and ensure the dovetail contours are clean. 

Printing the “Thermo Window” style side is then more difficult due to the overhang. I used Snapmaker breakaway material with tree supports (see photos) for that part to get very clean bridging, and the hygrometer snaps in place very nicely!

Printing the corners:

Corners A and B are mirror images of each other. You need 2 of each. They should be printed with the “top” of the part on the build plate (upside down). This puts pockets facing down and will need support to stay flat. I used Normal supports with enough XY gap to be able to get in a tool to peel it away. With Snapmaker PLA breakaway it peeled off clean with pliers.

The outside corner of the part has a thin wall radius when printed this way. This will want to let go and warp off the build plate. Use a generous brim and mind the ambient temperatures. I used a breakaway brim which was easy to remove, even in the dovetails. Same-material brim may provide better hold down. 

“No magnets" is straightforward. A solid body you can slice, print, and you're done! Honestly it's heavy enough and sits well enough, the magnets may be a bit overkill.

“With magnets” versions are designed to have the magnets inserted while printing! You cannot add the magnets after it's printed.

It is designed for 14 mm OD x 3 mm thick (0.55” OD x 1/8” thick) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1J2J7SZ/). There are two cavities in each model for embedding them. You will need at least 8 magnets total. Be careful, they're thin and brittle.

[Update: The J1/J1s absolutely does support the M600 park and pause command! At least in firmware v2.6 or later. Sincere apologies for the earlier misinformation!]

This is slightly expert stuff. If printing on a Snapmaker J1, you need to place a filament change command M600 at the start of the layer(s) that will start to cover the magnet cavities. If you've sliced this with the recommend 0.25 mm layer height, and with the part upside down (so that the pockets are face down, protrusions face up) then these should be layers 25 and 164. Do double check in your slicer preview of choice.

Then when it gets to that layer, the extruders will go to the parked position and pause so you can insert the magnets.

Before you start: make sure you get the polarity of your magnets correct. This is important for the magnets that face the printer (the ones below layer 164). I checked and marked them all with a Sharpie before starting printing. Think carefully since we're printing it upside down from how it'll be installed…

The hotends also have magnetic screws! When inserting the magnets, printing two corners at a time, I used some super glue on the face-down sides of the magnets and held them in place for about 60 seconds before resuming. Just something to give it a little extra hold-down force. Otherwise the hotend is *just* close enough to the magnet that it can attract/lift it before the layer is printed over it.

Good luck and happy printing!

UPDATE 2: Check out the makes to see some clever build plates! 

@SeanMcArdle_772738 highlights all needed parts can fit on one J1 build plate! They used this to great effect using rainbow filament. Likewise @ZekeTrimmer_1165230 rightly points out the parts are mirror symmetric. If you have two spools of the desired filament and get clever, Mirror or Copy Modes can be used to print it twice as fast.