DIY HiFi Headphones (Vilma Audio)
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Headphones that actually sound good. These headphones are easy to print and assemble.
- Ocena
- 5 / 5
- Polubienia
- 79
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- 331
- Wydruki
- 3
- Wyświetlenia
- 4525
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Aktualizacja u źródła:
Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- Audio
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial — Share Alike
READ BEFORE PRINTING!
HIFI doesn't need to be expensive. I designed headphones that actually sounds good and balanced. Easy to drive. No powerful headphone amp needed. Designed to be printed with little supports. Only small supports needed to print the yoke. Tolerances of the parts may vary between printers. Frequency response of the headphone included. Send me a private message if you got any problems with the parts! Enjoy your headphones!
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You need to print:
Amount | Part name | Plastic |
|---|---|---|
1x | headband | ASA for best result. PLA and PETG works but not as well, loosens pretty fast. |
4x | slider_brake | TPU |
4x | slider_brake_holder | Any hard plastic |
2x | cup (PRINT SECOND ONE MIRRORED!!, holes for connectors have to face forward) | Any hard plastic |
2x | driver_cover | Any hard plastic or laser cutted part |
2x | cup_backside_cover | Any hard plastic or laser cutted part |
2x | driver_holder | Any hard plastic |
1x | Comfort_strap (Print only if you don't want to buy headband cushion) | TPU |
2x | yoke | Any hard plastic, use PETG, ABS or ASA for durable parts |
4x | yoke_adapter | TPU |
You also need:
Amount | Part | Info |
|---|---|---|
2x | 50mm Ole Wolff headphone drivers or Peerless by Tymphany drivers | Different drivers sound different, remember to use right version of driver cover. Peerless version is more dark sounding. |
2x | Or equivalent for 6mm hole | |
1x | Pair of pads | Recommended with both drivers: Alternatives with Peerless drivers: Measurements with different pads coming at some point. |
36x | M2 x 10mm self tapping screws | |
2x | 80mm long 5mm outer diameter metal rod | Can be found from hardware store or use aluminium spacer rods from Aliexpress or ebay |
2x | M3 x 8mm Hex socket bolt | Works with spacer rods |
Small piece of fabric | Old t-shirt etc., Not needed as default with Peerless drivers. Disclaimer: Different types of fabric give different responses. I recommend to test multiple options to find the most suitable for your needs. | |
Fluffy cotton | For dampening inside of the cup | |
Thin wire | For connecting connectors and headphone drivers (You can use connectors to make your life easier) | |
1x | For comfort, choose the small one. Not needed if you print the comfort strap. | |
Hifiman or Focal compatible 2 x 3.5mm cable works. You can also do only one 3.5mm connector but then you need to wire the other element through the headband. | ||
Soldering iron and solder |
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Assembly:
Insert slider breaks to the holes in headband. Screw the brake holders in place. (If you printed the comfort strap put it under the brake holders.)
Push the metal rods through the holes (might be hard to push through, use force if needed).
Insert the other end of the rod in its place in yoke and insert the screws from outside to tighten the rod in place. If you use the Spacer rods you can add M3 hex socket bolts for durability.
Place the driver to its place and attach driver holder with 4 screws. (Pretty tight fit with the Peerless drivers. Alternatively take the cups and and glue the headphone driver in from the backside. Only little glue is needed on the outer rim of the driver to hold it in its place. Be careful not to make mess with the glue. Let the glue dry.)
Insert connectors in their places. Tighten with the included nut. Don't tighten too much. Threads might be very weak in some connectors. Buy some extra in case of breaking. They are cheap.
Connect drivers to the connectors with the wire. Solder both drivers to tip + and sleeve - of the connector. Ring not used. Google TRS connector for reference. Multimeter is handy tool for figuring out the connections.
Glue piece of the fabric with small dots of glue to the driver cover (to the side that goes against the cup). Be sure that fabric doesn't hit the driver. Fabric needs to cover only the middle part where the sound comes through to your ear. Don't cover the six small holes. If the headphone is still too bright (check the "Tuning" part at the end of this text) add a layer of fabric on top of the other one. I suggest that you glue the fabric to its place AFTER you have experienced with how many layers of fabric you need. Fabric stays in place between the cup and cover without the glue also. Fabric not needed with Peerless drivers as default.
Screw the driver cover to the cup with the 4 screws. With Ole Wolff drivers the three holes go in front of the ear and behind the ear. With peerless drivers bigger holes go in front of the ear and above the ear.
Put the cotton inside the cup from the backside.
Screw in the backside part of the cup with 4 screws
Insert the yoke adapters to the holes in the cup.
Stretch the yoke handles carefully in their places located in the cup part.
Put the headband cushion on its place. (Skip if you printed the comfort strap)
Alternatively you can wire the headphones for only one 3.5mm connector in the left or right side. Cups have holes in top of them to put the wire through them. Headband also have holes for the wiring if needed.
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Tuning:
Too bright (sharp highs): Add a layer of fabric between the cup and the driver cover. Put a piece of tape in front of the driver over the driver cover in front part of the driver to reduce 6 kHz peak.
Not enough highs: Use thinner fabric or take one layer off if you used multiple layers.
Too much bass: Cover part of the hole on backside of the driver. You may have to explore with this one to fit your needs. Bigger hole = more bass. Do not cover the hole fully. Air needs to get through. You can punch a hole to small piece of tape.
Not enough bass: Add 20-70ohm resistor between connector + and element +. Higher resistance resistor = more bass.