Prusa Mini Enclosure minimalistic + low budget (2mm plexiglass, M4)

My personal journey for a first bigger project. I wanted to build my own enclosure with cheaper materials fitting my printer setup and table. 

I made this to use the cheapest (2mm) plexiglass from the DIY shop and cut mine to be 4 sheets of 60 x 50cm and the lid is 50x50cm. I chose this size, because it can fit a 4cm slab + 2 cm foam + PrusaMini + mini Base nicely underneath it, without using up too much extra space. A 1kg spool fits underneath using the horizontal spool holder from the mini base extension remix, and a second spool (e.g. 2kg) can be accessible through the wall inlet. This is also neat for doing multiple filament changes mid print.

It is light enough to lift on and off when really needed using the added handles. But stable enough not to worry about my cat jumping on it.

I had fun doing this and learned a lot about modelling and working with different materials and maybe it can be a fun project for someone else :)

Print instructions:

I printed the inside corners and supporting parts in PETG (grey in my photos), all else in PLA.

0.3mm layer height, 0.6mm nozzle. Print all without supports (except for the tiny bit under the door knob). 15% infill, usually 4-5 perimeters depending on if the part requires extra stability.

8 x corner guard and corner and gap inserts

4 x middle and side support

2x hinge and handle

Note! I accidentally designed some of the insets where nuts go too big (still works, but slightly annoying during assembly) - this is the case for the middle supports; all others should fit well.

Hardware needed:

• 32x M4x16 bolts + nuts (all corners and inside supports and cable guard, except for the ones with the handle; e.g.: https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B0B55LDRKF?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)
• 6 x M4x20 bolts + nuts (handle parts)
• 12x M5 x16 sunk head screws + nuts (hinges and door knob)
• 1x M3x12 bolt and nut (PTFE tube inset)
• 2x magnets 1.5mm x 1.5mm round
• 2mm plexiglass (I cut mine to be 4 sheets of 60 x 50cm and the lid is 50x50cm; this size was chosen because it can fit a 4cm slab + 2 cm foam + PrusaMini + mini Base nicely)
• optional: one temperature/hygrometer (I used this one, which nicely just sits on the front middle support ledge: e.g. https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B0BQJCBJ6J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
• optional: PTFE tube (4mm outer diameter) to fit through the inlet.

Plexiglass drill and cut hints and tricks:

• try to cut as precise as possible (the corner guards will otherwise not fit on well, or the enclosure ends up with gaps in places); mark all lines with a pen on the foil (all plexiglass is provided with foils on both sides - leaves these on until the very end to prevent scratches!
• recommended cutting tools: PVC/wood saw blade with jigsaw; round blade multitool for the door.
• note of caution: it is quite “delicate” as it is 2mm; it will break, if not clamped /supported properly while cutting (I learned this the hard way). Always ensure maximum support (support both sides of the line to be cut) to mitigate vibrations and potential breakage during cutting
• jigsaws are best for cutting; for the door you will need a rounded multitool blade to enable an entry point for the jigsaw (I cut my entire door with a multitool: round blade for the straight lines, then the corners with the normal saw bit; I should have done the corners at minimum with the jigsaw…these are really hard to do; non-rounded corners will be a lot easier  - your choice!
• the multitool does melt the edges of the plexiglass and can leave blackening/crumbled molten plexiglass bits that require sanding/needle nose plyer removal
• do not overtighten the screws, the plexiglass might crack! Tights is good, but stop as soon as you hear any kind of cracking!
• if edges to chip, it is possible to glue this back on. Just won't look as good. So better just be careful :)

Assembly instructions:

1. Cut all plates in the wanted size
    
2. Print all parts
    
3. Starting with the first two boards of plexiglass and a corner piece, mark the M4 drill holes and drill out. Ensure that the corner pieces sit tightly in the corners and touch the plexiglass everywhere and in the correct angle. (with the foil still on!) assemble the first two plates. Also insert the side and middle supports (the lid comes last). 
   
   Note: make sure the side that was printed in horizontal position always points to the lid/the floor! (this ensure the corner guards to sit correctly later on.)
    
4. And continue like this until all sides are assembled. (There is no floor as this is designed to sit on a table and be lifted on top of your printer!). This is important to ensure that it all fits correctly at the end and ends up being a cube. (worst case scenario, some drill holes can be adjusted later for the corners, as the corner guards will hide this).
    
5. After adding the lid, the PTFE tube inset, back cable guard and door can be marked with a pen according to your preferred position. Use the printed parts as guides for cut and drill line markings.
    
6. Drill the holes BEFORE cutting more of the enclosure. The hole for the PTFE inset is M8 (lower hole) and M3 top hole. The door parts are all M10. All others are M4.
    
7. Take out the back panel to cut out the cable guard edge. When putting it back you can start removing the foil first, before putting the screws back on; resume with removing foil one panel at a time (make sure you keep the panel orientation the same, so that the screw holes line up and the edges stay together after assembly. The door comes last. 
   
   Note: if you, like me could not be bothered to make the M4 nut insets smaller in the middle supports, you can use the gap insert or your finger nail to stop the nut from spinning when fastening these.
    
8. After all is nice and tidy, except for the door panel, take the door panel out and cut the door out (note the plexiglass cutting tips). Press the magnets (correct orientation attracting each other) into the door knob parts - Tight fit on purpose! use the trick in the original DeLack video to press them into place (using the side of needle nose pliers).
    
9. Hold the door while attaching the hinges. Start with the the door knob, then the top hinge, then the bottom one. The door might need a tiny lifting into and out of the door knob end when opening and closing, but should run pretty smoothly.
    
10. Slide on the corner guards from the top. I was lazy and also used the same ones for the feet (which leaves little gaps, so that is what the gap inserts are for).
     
11. DONE!