Steel Series Arctis Pro Hinge Fix
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An internally glued insert replacing the old hinge mechanism planned obsolescence point.
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Minor Update based on comments. - Added a left model that is mirrored
I made this for the side of the headphones without all the electronics but it should work on both sides with some trimming. The square portion is ~11.4mm wide, and the circle outside is 9.55mm which is closer to the original hinge spot. It is a little oversized on the top so you can trim to size and the hole is lose enough I think you could slip in a soda can insert similar to a soda can shim used on locks. Even though I didn't.
The hinge mechanism is a circle with a notch and a shelf. That 1.1mm shelf is used for rotating and butts against the larger diameter attachment part internally. The notch is slightly undersized in the headphones to allow for the little bit of restricted movement. Steel Series couldn't have designed a weaker hinge if they tried with a .2mm plastic wear point being a point of failure.
To Install:
Take off headphone outside. Be careful about the speaker wires, they are a serious pain to solder back onto the board because of how small they are and without much slack. (ask me how I know)
Allow some slack by taking off the circuit board, and unclipping the internal black wires from their holders.
Take note of the mechanism. The wire can be removed from the hinge mechanism's slot after the washer is slid down. But to slide down the washer, you need to use needle nose pliers (or whatever the proper tool is) to open the horseshoe retainer and take it off.
use wire cutters to make the 11.4mm square going down into the 9.55mm OD hinge hole if needed. Usually the hinge mechanism takes a chunk with it after failing. If only the internal weak point broke but not the outside, I included a model without the square part which could almost entirely hide the repair.
(Optional) Cut a notch on one of the short edges of the hole (in 3d printed part) with wire cutters. It will be essentially invisible but that allows you to open it up just enough to slide over the wire so you don't need to de-solder their liquid electrical tape coated solder joints.
The 3d printed part should be on the outside, followed by the washer if possible, and finally putting the horseshoe retainer back on. The wire should be inside of the metal hinge mechanism at this point. And the hinge mechanism put back together.
Once you validate that it fits to satisfaction, I used quick-set gorilla super glue to coat the wings inside, use your glue of choice. This also reinforces the plastic shell helping with cracking that can easily happen.
Reassemble and you're done. Post comments if you have questions.
I recommend PLA+ and printing 100% solid if possible. Print it in a rainbow orientation, it uses tons of support but the side you want smooth is on the outside, and the hinge mechanism hole sizing is important and doesn't have 3d printing design considerations to prevent droop in holes. Printed on ender 3 original, if you couldn't tell by the quality of print lol.