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Klicky ABL Probe for Snapmaker Dual Extrusion Module — zdjęcie 1
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Klicky ABL Probe for Snapmaker Dual Extrusion Module

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I was tired of the temperature drift of the stock inductive probe on my Snapmaker 2.0 so I made a Klicky probe for it.

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The stock inductive probes gave me very inconsistent results when printing in the enclosure, even making me ruin a print sheet because the mesh was off by 2mm…

It got a lot worse with high temp materials to the point that I started leveling manually again.

After building a V0 and getting to know the DIY 3D printing community, I decided to make a Klicky style probe for the dual extrusion module.

Thanks to everyone who was involved in all the different Klicky implementations for laying the groundwork.

Also, thanks to @makemeone_xyz_910129 for implementing such a solution for the single extruder and providing a wiring diagram, etc., which you can also consult for this build (Klicky Probe for Snapmaker 2.0 Single Extruder).

Disclaimer:

This is a significant modification of the print head which will probably result in a loss of warranty. It has been working great for me, but I can't take any responsibility for every single scenario that could come up in the future, so use at your own discretion.

This Probe is also not meant to be automatically be picked up from a dock but to be palced and removed manually.

Keep in mind that the new probe is wired as NO, which means that the printer can't recognize if the probe is attached or not. If you start leveling without it attached, it will just ram the nozzle into the bed! The same goes for starting a print with the probe still attached!

What you'll need:

Parts were printed of ASA with a 0.25mm nozzle since they are tiny. Pay attention to the bridging direction so it matches the one in the pictures.

Parts:

  • 4 pcs. of Ø 5 x 3mm magnets (I got mine from 3DJake)
  • 2 pcs. M2x10 self-tapping screws (e.g., leftovers from a Voron build)
  • 1 pc. Omron D2F micro switch
  • some thin wire

 

Assembly:

Follow this video from the Snapmaker support page to see how to disassemble the unit.

Depending on the routing of the cable of the inductive probe, you might need to cut the connector off to remove it. I had to do this anyway since I didn't have a suitable connector.

If you know the specifications of this connector, feel free to comment.

To assemble the probe itself, insert the Omron switch into the printed part and fasten the screws.

Insert the magnets and make sure that the magnets and the pins of the switch have good contact. It might be necessary to use some glue.

Insert the stripped wire to the mount part and insert the magnets. I bent the wire 90° and set the magnets flush on top, again adding some glue. This might be different depending on your wire.

Check all the electrical connections with a multimeter to ensure functionality and avoid shorts.

Also, check the wiring diagram again so you crimp on the connector properly, etc.

Insert the finished mount and use the same screw that held the inductive probe in place.

Route the cable to the connector and connect it.

Reassemble the rest of the tool head.

This is already it for the mechanical installation, and now you need some software setup; no changes to the firmware are required.

Software and calibration:

Install the probe and use M119 to see if the probe functions correctly: It should state "z_probe_proximity_switch: open" when the switch is not depressed and "z_probe_proximity_switch: TRIGGERED" when the probe is engaged.

Set the new Z-offset:

Since the trigger point of the new probe is quite a bit lower than the stock one, you need to set a Z-offset using M851.

I ended up at -10.75mm, but your results might vary, so it’s important to set this very carefully.

I recommend starting with a value that is less negative, such as -9, and going from there. Set it by using M851 Z-9 and M500 to save it permanently.

Then do a complete bed leveling followed by a small test print.

Your nozzle will most probably be far too high from the bed. Use the offset on the touchscreen to get the optimal value. Then adapt the Z-Offset to the difference you had. Repeat if necessary.

You will have to re-level after every Z-offset change.

With the right Z-offset, you will be done and ready to use your new probe :)

I've attached the fusion files as well as the STL in case you need/want to make any modifications.

Edit: Read the comment from martinhb regarding the leveling and z offset to avoid damage to your new probe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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