Keychron Q11 Tenting Support with optional Wrist Rests
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Simple supports for tenting a Keychron Q11 split keyboard with or without wrist-rests
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- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
These simple supports allow a Keychron Q11 keyboard to be tented by placing them under the inboard edges of the two halves of the keyboard.
There are two versions, one without wrist rests, and one with support for wrist rests. The wrist rest version is printed in pieces that slot together - this requires reasonable mechanical tolerance control on your printer, but allows you to print supports for alternative wrist rests without having to reprint the main supports. There are optional 6mm diameter pegs with a parameterized length on the wrist rest support to allow wrist rests to be secured to the support. The 6mm pegs should work well with holes drilled in the wrist rest with either a 6mm or ¼" drill bit.
This design should work well for tenting angles to about 20 degrees. Beyond that, I would suggest a different design that supported the outside edge of the keyboard.
You might want to add a thin rubber/neoprene footing to the flat underside of the supports for stability on a smooth desk.
The supplied STL files are set up for a 10 degree tenting angle, and with a wrist rest depth and fillet suitable for use with the Keychron Q11 Wooden Palm Rests. The peg length is set to 0.01mm as the Keychron Q11 Wooden Palm Rests are undrilled and have a rubber foot on the underside.
All parts for a complete set are contained in a single STL file. Use PrusaSlicer's “Split To Objects” tool or equivalent to separate them. Because of the way that the original file was modelled, the pieces are upside down in the STL, with pegs and recesses for the wrist rests and keyboard feet on the bottom. Flip them over before slicing and printing.
The model files include Fusion 360 files for both versions, with the following user parameters:
- TentingAngle - sets the angle of the keyboard. This controls both the height and top surface angle.
- WristRestDepth - sets the depth of the wrist rest attachments in that model.
- WristRestFillet - sets the radius of the fillet on the exposed corner of the wrist rest support. Use this to avoid a sharp exposed corner.
- WristRestPegHeight - sets the length of the wrist rest attachment pegs. Set to something like 0.01 mm to effectively remove the pegs.
- LeftLength - the length of the left side of the keyboard, used to calculate the height of the support from the TentingAngle. Use this to adapt the model to other keyboard types (you'll likely want to do some editing of the shape of the supports as well).
- RightLength - the length of the right side of the keyboard, as above.
- Depth - the depth of the keyboard.
Because both sides of the keyboard are tented to the same angle, the wider right side ends up slightly taller than the left, but this is only noticeable if you push the two sides together and at higher tenting angles. You can alter the formula for the extrusion distance and angle in the extrusion right sketch to adjust this. Setting the extrusion distance in the extrusion right sketch to sin(TentingAngle) * LeftLength, and the angle to 90 deg - asin(sin(TentingAngle) * LeftLength / RightLength will get the heights closer.
Sorry, no print files, because I use a highly modified Ender 3 Pro at home (Sprite Pro extruder, water cooled K1 hot end, Klipper) and a lightly modified Prusa i3 MKS+ at work (SliceEngineering Mosquito hot end), so they wouldn't work for you anyway.
Description of the original model by Flo
This tenting kit for the Keychron Q11 lets you attach wooden wrist rests to your keyboard for better ergonomics. To attach the wood pieces to the tenting kit, you need to drill some slots into them that match the pins on the printed parts. I have done this with a drill and a chisel which worked okay.
I have seen other tenting kits that use much more filament for the tenting of the keyboard and some even print the whole wrist rests. I like to have wooden wrist rests because they feel way better than the plastic ones and it's a bit of a waste of plastic to print them in whole. That's why I designed my own kit which uses as little plastic as possible while being very stable.