TAMIYA Hotshot Alternative Body & Wing
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Alternative printable body and wing for the 1/10 RC model kit TAMIYA Hotshot (1 & 2).
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Informacje o modelu
- Źródło
- Printables
- Kategoria
- RC & Robotics
- Licencja
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
This is an alternative body and wing for the 1/10 RC model kit TAMIYA Hotshot (1 & 2).
Printing
I recommend using PETG as the material for printing. PLA is quite rigid and may be too brittle for the rough RC environment.
The printing parameters can be adjusted as needed. To reduce the amount of sanding required, I suggest using a lower layer height (e.g., 0.12mm). To keep the weight low, you could use 20% infill. For the infill pattern, I recommend something that provides all-directional support, such as "cubic". Additionally, to improve bed adhesion for the tall and thin-walled parts, you should use a brim with a width of about 10mm.
The models for the body and wing have been split in the middle for printing. Therefore, they should be printed standing on these flat separation surfaces. Supports should not be necessary at all. For those who prefer to use a 3D printing service (where assembly might not be required), I've also included the "whole" (non-split) versions of the models.The models for the body and wing have been split in the middle for printing. Therefore, they should be printed standing on these flat separation surfaces. Supports should not be necessary at all. For those who prefer to use a 3D printing service (where assembly might not be required), I've also included the "whole" (non-split) versions of the models.
Assembly
After printing, the pairs of printed parts need to be assembled.
I recommend inserting Ø1mm spring steel wire pins into the designated holes. The length isn't too critical—around 12-13mm for the wing, and you can use much longer pieces for the body (just test if they can still be joined together before final gluing).
Once the pins fit, the pinned pairs of printed parts should be glued together using 2-component epoxy adhesive.
Painting
As a primer before sanding, I recommend using thick filler or spray putty. Due to the RC application, I’ve used 2-component automotive paint for the final topcoat, as it is significantly more durable and solvent-resistant than regular airbrush or spray can paints. Keep in mind that you have to meticulously clean every part of the airbrush afterward with this kind of paint (usually sets after 3-5h at room temperature).