The missing half of a DC Plug
I bought this plug and it needed the bottom half, so I designed it in Onshape.
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Liczymy pasujące modele…
I bought this plug and it needed the bottom half, so I designed it in Onshape.
UPDATE v2 (05/22/2024): Better hole spacing on the base piece (21 mm). Redesign of the top piece with 2 heatinserts. It's all M3 screws now. No tiny screw needed, you just have to carefully enlarge the hole on the body of the webcam or…
Meet B.O.X.Y. short for B arely O verdesigned X -axis Y ielder. I love my Rook MK1 so much, but Rookery (albeit beautiful) won't hold an ABL probe and Sentinel is way too large. So I designed this toolhead from scratch. It's easy too…
A quick and dirty adapter to fit the FYSTEC Portable Input Shaper onto the Rookery. I used 6 mm M3 screws and 1 mm washers to perfectly mount the plastic adapter to the rookery. It's best to screw the adapter in first and then mount the…
05/24/2024 UPDATE v2: I've made the shoes wider and a better fit on the rubber foot bottom hole. The feet I used to build my Rook MK1 are here (not affiliated). -- My small Rook MK1 is pretty lightweight so it would shake a lot and walk…
You'll need a single M3x5Dx4L heat-insert, a few M3 bolts, a tiny piece of led strip, cables, connectors and you're done! If you need a similarly easy and simple webcam stand, check this out.
I've made a few modifications to fit zip-ties and reinforced some bits and pieces. Also adjusted the holes on top to fit regular voron heat-inserts. Onshape URL:…
You'll need a couple of M3 bolts and Klicky PCB. This is the version with M2 brass heat-inserts. Such inserts are part of the original Siboor kit.
My Rook 2020 Scalable MK2 has a lot of overtravel, but I couldn't find a place for Klicky anywhere but on the top of the printbed frame. I remixed the original files to put a Better Dock a few millimeters just below the printbed on the…
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