Skyligh Hyperspot ceiling adapter mount with cover
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Fits Skylight Hyperspot FL and most probably FM. FS model would need adjustments.
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Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Pets
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution — Noncommercial
This was a very fun project, combining two of my hobbies: aquascaping and 3D printing.
The original Skylight Hyperspot light comes with a ceiling mount in the box and is meant to be used with an open-top aquarium. However, the cable still runs down into the tank, and I wanted to eliminate that to achieve a “gallery look” – nothing between the light body and the water surface.
The most difficult part
You will need to prepare a 230 V mains connection above the aquarium.
If you live in a bungalow, you can usually add the cable easily, as the upper insulation is often accessible and makes new installations straightforward. I found mains access above my utility room.
Another option is to prepare the location in advance if the house or apartment is still under construction.
Disclaimer: Do not install mains wiring yourself if you are not aware of the dangers. You risk your life. Always leave electrical installation to professionals, who can also advise you on how to do it better.
Assembly / parts needed
The whole assembly procedure is documented with photos and should be self-explanatory.
Left/right parts can be swapped; the only difference is the cable entry location.
- Decide where your light will be mounted. Install the Skylight Hyperbar ceiling knobs, but keep the light body on the floor for now.
- You will need a ceiling drill template, made of
template R+template M+template L. Print them in any material you like – I used PLA. All other parts should be printed from a more thermally stable material.
Assemble the 3-part template puzzle, fix it with adhesive tape, and slide it onto the already mounted ceiling knobs. Now you can mark and drill holes for the dowels that will hold the clips. - Prepare 6× ceiling clips, using the
adapter holder/case holder files.
Print them with enough perimeters so that the slicer won’t generate infill – they need to be stiff.
I used 4× adapter holder and 2× case holder, but the final choice is up to you. - Mount the parts and adapters in place, along with the hanging ropes if you haven’t already.
- Prepare
casing L,casing M, andcasing R. Print them with supports – you can use the providedSkylight_Hyperspot_adapter_holder.3mffile with locally enabled supports where needed. - Start with the middle part. Each casing piece attaches to the holders from the previous step via a bayonet connection.
- Mount the casing L part, installing the rope first.
- Attach the Skylight Hyperbar light body to the hanging kit, then mount the casing R part with its rope installed. It’s helpful to have someone assist you with this step.
- Prepare 2×
Cable_hole_reducer. Feed the “transparent” cable through the large hole in casing R.
Secure the cable with the reducer – you can use a zip tie or glue to hold the two parts together. - Finally, mount the last casing part to the ceiling.
Printing summary
Material: PET-G or other heat-resistant filament. The casing vents help keep the adapter cool.
I used PET-G Galaxy Black, which has a similar texture to the light body. If you prefer a more discreet look, try silver, white, mutted white, beige, or another neutral color.
Hanging clips should be printed solid (no infill), preferably with 7+ perimeters.
Use supports for casing R / M / L parts – ideally only where necessary.
Printer: Prusa MK2.5S
Nozzle: 0.4 mm
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Perimeters: 7+ for clips, 2–3 for other parts
Infill: 10 % gyroid
Supports: Yes, for casing parts