Active ventilation for COREONE

DIY Printer Ventilation System for ABS/ASA Printing

This model is designed for anyone who needs to print with ABS or ASA but doesn’t want to spend much on expensive filtration systems — especially if you have a window near your printer.
Building this very sophisticated ventilation setup requires some basic electronics knowledge.

Parts Required

4 × M3×10 (ISO4762) screws

4 × M3×6 (ISO4762) screws

4 × M4×35 screws (any head type)

Step-up DC-DC converter (XL6009)

USB-A cable

2-pin cable

120×25 mm 12 V PC fan (3-pin, ~1800 RPM)

Pin headers

Threaded inserts:

M3×4×5 mm

M4×8.1×6.3 mm

Aluminium hose, Ø 100 mm, length 2 m

Metal tightening clamp, Ø 100 mm

USB-A power supply or charger

Printing Instructions

Print Ventilation Parts 1 and 2 with organic supports.

Add extra supports to the ventilation holders on Part 1.

Use PETG — PLA is not recommended.

Set infill to at least 20 %.

Increase perimeters for top and bottom layers to improve strength.

After printing, some supports inside the ventilation holders may be difficult to remove — only clear enough space for the screws to pass through; the rest can stay in place.

Assembly Instructions

Threaded Inserts:

Insert M4 threaded inserts into the internal holes of Part 1.

Insert M3 threaded inserts into the external mounting holes of Part 1.

Fan Installation:

Feed the fan cable harness through the small side hole.

Mount the fan inside Part 1 using the M4 screws.

⚠ Important: The fan logo must face inward; otherwise, airflow direction will be reversed.

DC-DC Converter Setup:

On the input pads (IN+, IN−), solder the red wire to IN+ and black wire to IN− from the USB-A cable.

On the output pads (OUT+, OUT−), solder short wires (red to OUT+, black to OUT−) and attach pin headers.

⚠ Carefully connect a voltmeter to the output and power the converter via USB.

Adjust the potentiometer on the XL6009 until the output voltage reads 9 V.

Connect the output headers to the fan — check pin orientation before powering on!

The fan should start spinning. You can fine-tune RPM by lowering the voltage — less voltage = slower speed. (In my case, I had to reduce it a lot.)

Final Assembly:

Attach Part 2 to Part 1 using M3×10 mm screws.

Secure Part 1 to the printer’s rear with M3×6 mm screws.

Connect the hose to the outlet on Part 2 and secure it with the metal clamp.

Attach the harness cover so the fan cable aligns with its designated channel.

Testing the Ventilation

You can easily test airflow using incense sticks:

Light one and place it on the print bed (put something under it to catch ash).

Observe whether the smoke is drawn out of the enclosure.
If it is, congratulations — your system works perfectly!

Chamber Heating and Airflow Adjustment

When printing with ASA or ABS, chamber temperature must remain stable.
If the chamber cools down during printing, the fan speed may be too high.
Reduce RPM by lowering the output voltage on the DC-DC converter, then re-test airflow with incense sticks to find the optimal balance.

✅ Tip: Properly tuned, this ventilation keeps fumes out while maintaining enough warmth for high-temperature materials — all without expensive filters or fans.

Bonus: Ventilation Stand

As a bonus, there’s also a stand for the ventilation system.

Print it without supports; PETG is recommended.

When printing the adjustment screws, scale them to 98% in X and Y — otherwise they won’t fit properly into the stand’s legs.

These screws allow fine adjustment of the stand height to gently support the ventilation system without creating pressure between the printer and the ventilation unit.

This simple addition makes the setup more stable and reduces mechanical stress on the printer frame.