3 way Speaker Copie concept 1
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Fredrik’s Copie Concept One: Speaker design inspired by the B&O Beolab 3
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Updated at source:
Model information
- Source
- Printables
- Category
- Electronics
- License
- Creative Commons — Attribution
Hi, I'm Fredrik from Germany! I have a passion for building and designing high-quality speakers. I love combining modern aesthetics with great sound. I’m starting to upload my designs here to share them with the community. I hope you enjoy building them as much as I enjoyed them!
About the Speaker:
Project Name: Copie Concept One (inspired by Beolab 3)
The speaker has good sound, but it definitely needs a sub because it can’t produce low bass. The frequency response is from about 80 Hz to 20 kHz. I’m posting a picture of the frequency response made with a Rode NT-USB, so it’s not really accurate.
Rating: 5 Ohms | 40–50W
Print Instructions (Material: I used PETG)
To achieve the best sound quality, these settings are recommended:
Base: 10% infill, the rest is up to you.
Box Top: 20% Gyroid infill and 5 outer layers.
Box: 20% Gyroid infill and 5 outer layers.
Box Tweeter: 15% Gyroid infill, the rest is up to you.
Box Mid: It is only important to print it leak-proof, so it’s up to your knowledge of your printer.
Passive Radiator Ring: Print it in a material that can be glued; this helps the passive radiator stay in place.
For a better look, I used the default Fuzzy Skin (Contour) in Orca Slicer. Please keep in mind that without Fuzzy Skin, the fitment between the Box Top and the Box may be off. It is recommended to use Fuzzy Skin to ensure the fitment is correct
Material list:
Spakers:
Rest:
Passiv Radiator (90mm): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008747141592.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.211.25f61802Gw51Qr&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Glue 50ml is enougth for two speakers: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005379063116.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.223.25f61802Gw51Qr&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Some Hot glue
Aluminum rod: 50mm long, 10mm outer diameter, 6mm inner diameter for the tweeter wire
Electrical tape 100mm: for the base so the speaker can be adjusted without tipping to the center of gravity from the speaker
Super glue for the Aluminum rod
Speaker dampening wool: look in the instructions for an example
You can contact me if the parts are no longer available; I will do my best to find a replacement for you
Wire:
Tweeter and Midrange: 0.5mm² or 20 AWG (speaker wire) About 60cm.
Mid-woofer: 1.5mm² or 15 AWG (speaker wire) About 20CM
Soldering iron and some solder
Instructions:
Make sure all parts fit before applying glue! If the speakers do not fit, use hot air to soften the 3D parts to make them fit!!!!!!!!!
1. Glue the midrange speaker inside the top of the box using B-7000 glue
2. Installing the passive radiator: Start by applying glue to the side of the passive radiator as shown in the picture, then place it inside the box
3. Then, start applying glue to the passive radiator ring all the way around, as shown in the picture
4.Once the ring is inside the enclosure, ensure it is seated flush against the passive radiator. Then, apply additional adhesive to seal the gap between the box and the ring
5. Repeat step 3-4 for the other side
6. Disassemble the speaker terminals and start gluing the base of the terminals to the Box
7. Apply glue to the speaker terminal screws and press them into the terminal base
8.Squeeze the excess glue around the base of the terminal screw to ensure a tight fit, following the photo
9. Apply some glue inside, all the way around the terminal screws
10. Add the washer and the nut
11. To ensure that the terminal opening is facing upward for easier cable installation, a screwdriver can be used to hold it in place while tightening the nut
12. Now, set the box aside to let the glue dry. Next, we are taking the crossover apart
13. Desolder all the components from the board, except for the terminals
14. For the woofer coil, we have to make some modifications for easier installation
15. Unwind some of the coil as shown in the picture, and route the wire according to the path shown in the photos
16. Glue the two coils back together using hot glue. The one on the right is the slightly larger coil for the mid-woofer; the one on the left is the smaller one for the midrange
17. Add the capacitor to the midrange coil (left) using hot glue, and solder it to the copper wire of the coil. (It doesn't matter which pin of the capacitor you use; it works both ways
18. Now, glue the crossover inside the box with hot glue as shown in the picture. Place it near the terminals for easier wire installation
19. Solder both copper leads in the middle together; this will be the positive input for the speaker. Add plenty of solder to the speaker terminals to ensure the best connections, but be careful not to melt the terminal
20. Connect the positive wire from the positive input to the crossover (using 1.5mm² / 15 AWG wire)
21. Add about 15 cm of 1.5 mm² (15 AWG) wire to the negative input terminal and to the positive output of the mid-woofer coil, as shown in the picture for the mid-woofer
22. Solder the wires to the mid-woofer as shown in the photo, making sure that positive and negative are connected correctly
23. Now, glue the woofer inside the box. Apply the glue as shown in the photo
24. Make sure the woofer is fully pressed inside and is secure. Now, set the box aside and let the glue dry
25. Now, install the aluminum rod into the top of the box using superglue
26. Now, solder the wires for the tweeter (using about 20 cm of 0.5 mm² / 20 AWG wire in total). One of the tweeter terminals has a red mark, which is positive. The capacitor should be soldered to this terminal, as shown in the photo. Solder the negative wire to the other terminal. Note: It doesn't matter which way the capacitor is connected
27. Pull the cables through the tweeter box, as shown in the photo
28. Pull all the wires through the aluminum rod, as shown in the photo
29. Before adding superglue to the aluminum rod from the outside, make sure the cables are not getting shorted by the rod inside the tweeter box. Now, position the top cone in the middle of the midrange speaker. Make sure it is straight on top; then you can add the superglue and wait a bit to ensure it doesn't move
30. You can now push the tweeter and the tweeter capacitor inside the tweeter housing, as shown in the photo
31. Solder the wires (using about 20 cm of 0.5 mm² / 20 AWG wire in total) to the midrange driver. The bigger terminal is positive, and the smaller one is negative. Then, pull the wires through the opening of the midrange box
32. Add some sound-dampening wool for the midrange speaker before gluing it shut
33. Apply hot glue around the midrange box and the cables for the tweeter and the midrange
34. Solder both negative poles of the midrange and the tweeter together, and add solder to the positive cables
35. Add some sound-damping wool inside the housing to prevent cables from rattling
36. The midrange speaker is connected to the capacitor output of the crossover. The negative cable is connected to the negative input terminal, and the positive cable from the tweeter is connected to the positive input terminal
37. Test the speakers to ensure every driver works. This cannot be repaired after everything is glued shut!!
38. Make sure that the cables are not in the way when installing the box top correctly. Apply glue to the box top, make sure it is aligned with the box, and then press it firmly together. Apply more glue around the edges to ensure it is airtight
39. Use some electrical tape for better grip so the speaker doesn't move in the base
40. Let the speaker sit for 30 minutes to ensure the glue is dry. Excess glue can be rubbed away. Please let the speakers burn in to enjoy them fully
Status: Done
Contact: For questions or support, please contact me at: [email protected]
Stay tuned for more speaker projects and other electrical DIY stuff!